Opel GT Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've spent my time looking around on here at all the different threads about getting a little more power out of a GT, but haven't found a pratical solution for where i am. right now, i have a more or less complete '69 high comp engine, that was rebuilt about a year ago with stock parts and is still attached to the rebuild stand. there is no flywheel, alternator, starter, carb, intake or exhaust manifolds attached, other than that its all put together. since it would be a heck of a lot easier to work on the engine when its out of the car i would like to do whatever mods i can to it before dropping it in sometime early next year when all the body work should be completed. anyway, what i would like to find out is what i can do without spending a crazy amount of money, although i'm willing to put a fair bit in, i've got the skill to do most things with an engine and plenty of time. I'd also like to spare myself the effort of tearing apart the engine to bore out the cylinders or anything like that or pay to get it done.

Another thing, i was reading on here about power to weight ratios and then couldn't find much about lightening a GT, so if any of you could let me know how to go about doing that without making it look like something from NASCAR inside :eek: i was inspiried by this thread http://opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=503 ..... a 1.1 kadett that beats a hemi cude in 60' times :eek:

Sorry about the long post, after reading that i couldn't help myself. I need to show all the people who said an opel can't keep up with much on the road. A friend of mine is convinced his '94 diesel jetta that weighs 3500 lbs and less than 90 horsepower can beat it, sure diesel has torque...... not important if hes pushing twice the weight ;)
 

·
1450 Seeker...
Joined
·
613 Posts
This is my impression of what would be best for what you are trying to do. Some of the more experienced voices are more than welcome to make corrections. Oh, and this all information that I have learned from reading and listening carefully on this site. Any questions on what I mean, run a search for that term. Also, the link that you posted answers all of these questions and then some, re-read that thread.

Combination cam from OGTS (good balance of power)
Roller Rockers from Samdog (small bump in power, huge bump in reliability, noise reduction, and friction reduction, a nice upgrade for a street motor, but they are only critical if your motor will spend any time above 6000, which you probably will not)
Stock intake manifold ported to Bob Legere's article (probably the "torquer" design, I'll let you decide)
Weber 38 DGAS (buy used and rebuild yourself if you are brave, it's worth the experience)
Sprint Exhaust manifold (keep your eye out here and on ebay, they do show up)
2" pipe after the head pipe with small body "turbo" muffler, 2.5" over-axle pipe, resonator of choice or Y-split to rear (any way you slice it, the stock exhaust won't cut it, you need to take it to an exhaust shop and have it done custom)
Electric fan
Pertronix ignition (hi-cap coil is debatable)
factory intake snorkle adapted to weber carb with K&N filter, (cool clean air)
Synthentic Oils front to rear (that stuff is slippery and can free up some real HP's)

Sway-bars a must
solid brakes equally important, you are going to find yourself with the gas pedal touching the floor a lot more frequently, eventually you need to reverse that process and crappy brakes make it outright scary.

Mileage may vary.
 

·
OPEL-LESS!!!
Joined
·
2,115 Posts
it would really help out alot too if you told us what kind of driving you plan to do. a weekend toy, autoX, frequent driver, strictly daily driver ect. that may change the cam/carburation and such to make it more streetable, where as if its just a autoX or toy car, you can pretty much go balls to the wall and not worry about off idle performance and fuel consumption.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm probably not going to be doing any racing.... on a track that is, there will probably be the occasional red light burst and i do live near alot of country roads that can be quite fun ;) ... not so fun in my Toyota Tercel i'm currently driving, no fun at all. anyway I'm looking for an engine that can get performance when i need it, but isn't a pain to drive sanely, and hopefully one that won't eat gas either.... with prices around 85c/liter here in Canada I want to be able to afford to go for a drive when I want... not when my wallet says I can. This will probably be my only car that i'll drive other than some beater for the winter, so it will get some milage on it.

Thanks for the help, I don't know what I'd do without you guys...
 

·
Old Opeler
Joined
·
5,564 Posts
Hang Ons

Since your motor is already "buttoned up" just concentrate on the externals: Weber Carb (38 DGAS if possible or 32/36 if one is easier to find) Good exhaust system ( don't worry too much about replacing the standard hot spot type exhaust if you plan to drive into the Autumn or early Spring as the standard setup is designed for chilly climates :D ) and upgrade the ignition.
With a modestly ported intake manifold these few modifications will make your, already hi-compression '69 motor feel much more alive. The only other thing that may be worth pulling the motor partially apart is the installation of a good "street" cam like the "Combo" from OGTS.
 

·
OPEL-LESS!!!
Joined
·
2,115 Posts
i've put 12,000 miles on my GT since mid-april. its the origional Low-Comp engine, but with pertronix, 32/36, electric fan, header, better exhaust, and a .435 lift, 230 Duration @.050, fairly large cam for street use. i'm finding i'm slowly but surely killing my 4 speed, the car has ample power, even being a low comp, 26 miles to a gallon and i drive pretty rough, but best of all its easy to drive.

i agree with Jim, the motors buttoned up, the only thing worth pulling anything apart for is to swap the cam. you'll have to pull the head off to do this as theres no way to get the cam sprocket out of the way to slide the cam out the front of the head.

if your trying to drive it as much as i, i'd recomend the pertronix, weber (32/36 in my opinion if you need to keep gas mileage somewhat good, 38 will perform better at the cost of fuel) and as jim stated, the mildly ported intake manifold. search around for rallybobs article on porting the intakes and building what i call "turtles" in the bottom of the intake to direct the fuel better through the runners to the cylinders. if you dont care about pulling the head and feel comfortable with it, a new cam would be nice. if the motor has never been fired, you'll be able to get away with keeping the lifters that are already in that motor, and just replace the cam.

idk guys, sound like 110 or so horsepower at the flywheel? dont take that too seriousely, theres surely more qualified people here to give you a aproximate guestimate on horsepower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
110 horsepower you say? that would be really nice, hearing that makes me want to go out and start getting the parts... if only i had the money right now :eek: but soon. and the engine hasn't been fired so i don't need new lifters :D

does anyone have any ideas on lightening the car?
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top