Opel GT Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am thinking about purchasing a GT 4 speed in Class 2 or better. Would prefer to leave the car close to factory original if possible. Among 1969 to 1973, which year would you purchase and why?

Thanks!
 

·
Member
Joined
·
415 Posts
72 It has the larger motor and better rear end but none of the EPA stuff that the 73 has. You can even find some early in the modle year that have the good heads on them.
 

·
Member
Joined
·
1,175 Posts
I think my '72 had a charcoal canister and some other anti-pollution equipment. The '72 is supposed to be a good, well built year, doesn't have that weakened head, etc. and the head gasket wouldn't leak like, I believe, the earlier years, because of that extra head bolt. Also, works with low lead gas and probably has less overheating than the higher compression 1970's.

I liked the Manta Tail lights that they used on the '73.

I don't understand why people are so excited about '69's. I guess they are rare but I wouldn't want a 1.1 Liter engine.

My Dad told me that Opel made a 1.5 Liter engine that made over 40 mpg. It wasn't popular here because of the lower h.p. and if you'll remember, right about then no body here cared about fuel economy. That happens whenever gas prices dip. As soon as that happens, it's S.U.V's and gas hogs all over again. Happens every time.

Were 1.5 Liter engines ever used here or in GT's? That would be rare if that happened.
 

·
Opel Addicts
Joined
·
2,475 Posts
Vickie and I have a 69, 70 and 72 in our collection that run. The 69 really performs rings around the others. The 72 is about as close to stock as you can get and probably our most seamless and trouble free car, but it doesn't come anywhere close to being able to keep up with the other 2. I really don't think there is much difference except the 69 and 70 will have more power without having to alter the engine. I would say to test drive a few and see what you like.

Allen :cool:
 

·
Old Opeler
Joined
·
5,564 Posts
Condition .. Condition .. Condition

The condition of the bodywork is arguably the most important factor when buying a GT. Any motor can have Hi-compression pistons fitted and the early diffs can be directly refro-fitted with the later model that has conventional style wheel bearings.
 

·
Member
Joined
·
1,175 Posts
Allen:

So a 70 would perform like a 69 because of the higher h.p. right? That's what I used to have. I drove it from 1977 to 1985 daily and from 1985 to 1991 less often. Between 1985 and 1988 I had a 1972 Mach I fastback. The view through the rear window was a narrow slit because of the extreme slope. Very wasteful on gas but neat to drive. Seemed as big as a truck compared to my GT.
 

·
Old Opeler
Joined
·
5,564 Posts
White GT - auto!

Rose said:
Trying to figure it out myself jef :confused: I want a auto trans which most think is WRONG :eek:
Rose, Have a look at the 1969 Gt advertised in this sites For Sale page
It is quite a ways from you but sounds like it could be driven home and it is an auto!

BTW: Don't believe all the balderdash about auto GTs - Mine was such a fine "around town" car before I began rebuilding it that it stays auto!
GTs with auto trans are getting more and more rare because people insist on changing them to manuals..........can always fit them with a 2.2L or 2.4L motor to wake them up a bit too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Rose, i'm currently the owner of the 69 for sale on the ads (thanks for the tip Jim).

Most folks prefer the manual transmissions for the sporty feel of it, but I purchased this GT with an AT simply because it was for my daughter and to be a nice daily driver that she could drive with ease at 16 while still learning to drive. The transmission shifts very well and when you're working with a car model where the hp ranges from 90ish to 125ish depending on the work done to it, the AT provides more than enough 'gear' to drive it around and have fun in my personal opinion. This one will undoubtedly be closer to 125 hp and along with the intake work, header and autocross cam in it, this car picks right up to 55-70 whenever you want it to and will cruise right along at that speed for as long as you want to drive it as such.

I can provide more pictures if you'd like as well as some videos of it starting and running if your email can handle files of that size. Price is negotiable of course and if you're too far away, maybe we can look into someone hauling it out or shipping it out to you, though it's capable of being driven just about anywhere.

Thanks,
Claud
 

·
Opel Addicts
Joined
·
2,475 Posts
:) BDD - Yes, the 69 and 70 both have the high comp. engines and there is a noticeable difference in performance.

BTW - I had a 73 Mustang fastback with a 351 Cleveland in it when I was in college in the 70s. What a fast car that was! unfortunately it also got about 10-15 MPG, so I traded it for a Plymouth Arrow. I still have very fond memories of that Mustang though!

Allen :cool:
 

·
Member
Joined
·
1,175 Posts
No matter what anybody says, the styling of the Mustang Fastbacks and Mach I's is about the best ever done here. They haven't been matched here, in my opinion.

In the late 70's or early 80's I was getting a ride down to college with a neighbor who also went to the same school. He was driving his modified VW Bug. It had new paint, fancy f.g. fenders, a new hood, etc.
A bunch of scrubby, dirty, long haired hippie types pulled up alongsde when he was doing 55 or 60. There may have been a dense cloud of some kind of smoke coming out the windows too but whatever. Their car was rusty with faded chipped paint, etc. They all laughed at us for the car we were in, popped into another gear and the tires squealed and smoked and it took off from us like we were standing still; and this when we were doing 55 (top speed in a VW, especially with any kind of headwind and not going downhill). Must have had a 351 in it. Definitely cool.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
I have been eyeballing that white GT since it was posted. :D It is more money than I can afford and about 1500 miles away :(
 

·
1000 Post Club
Joined
·
1,409 Posts
i agree with Jim, it all should come down to how much work is involved to get everything fixed, u can always do the engine change or tranny change. the body work is definately the most important factor when lookin at purchasing a GT.
 

·
Member
Joined
·
1,175 Posts
I agree. Everything else can be fixed but the body you start with should be in good shape.

Problems with the body can be difficult to repair, can be hidden until it's too late,etc. Rust becomes a structural issue in these unibody cars and depending on the climate where you live that problem can be a real threat to the "foundation" of the car. When a car sits for too long in the humid Midwest and the rocker panels are being eaten away, the car can actually start to deflect just sitting there. Also cars that just sit outside too long and aren't used tend to get mildew inside. It helps that someone is regularly using the car and running the engine.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,842 Posts
Rose, check out your PMs and go have a look. I'm not going to look see. Half mile from where it sits is where I got to experience the weight of a GT and I avoid the area like the plague.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top