Opel GT Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Paul and Amanda Opelers
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi -

I've been scouring the Driver Door posts for some tips, and maybe I missed it, as Amanda and I reinstall the Left door regulator -

We left the old cable on, it looks in OK shape. Some folks also say take off the window, some say leave it on - we did the latter... Now -

We are struggling to get the cable to loop around all its path (pulleys), but maybe I am missing something on the reinstall - the restringing of the winder drum with the cable...


I understand that, when the window is all the way down, the cable on one half (outer, or inner to driver?) is max-coiled onto the drum, while the other half is paid fully out, right? Then when you raise the window fully up, the opposite should occur, reversing coiling on the drum, right?

So - which way do you coil on the drum, Clockwise, or Counter-Clockwise (as you face the drum outward from the inside of the door)? And - how many loops do you coil on the drum at full down? If the answer is - "enough to make it snug" - what is that normally approximately?

I see people talking about coiling it before installing the regulator, and securing the cable with tape or putty; and other folks coil it on after it's installed. We tried the latter and found little room to pry the cable over pulley lips...

And - would it be easier to just put in new cable (we bought some as suggested in other posts) - and have open ends to later clamp with tension?

Is it useful or eye-opening to open up the right-hand door to look at a mirror of the operation? (or at least snake a video snake camera down there LOL)? ...

Many thanks for any insights - sorry if they are already answered elsewhere - we may have missed these!

Best,

Paul and Amanda -
 

·
Paul and Amanda Opelers
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
additional clarification? on post" Window regulator installation this worked for me"

This is super helpful, ESPECIALLY BDD's list about a third of the way down on page 1 of that thread, "Window regulator installation this worked for me"

But we are a tad confused, on a couple aspects - can we ask if anyone has clarification on the following (I pass the keyboard to Amanda, who is working the specific challenge today :) )

Hi all - here are my questions:

I have the spool wound the correct way, however; there is not enough slack (even when I rotate to the right) to pull the cable over the bottom pulley. I even removed the lower pulley to give it a bit more play. So, where does the spool start? Do the cables start to wind at the front of the car or the rear? This would be so helpful if anyone knows, before I have to remove the passenger door to find out! #myhandsthankyouinadvance!
Amanda
 

·
Just Some Dude in Jersey
Joined
·
15,260 Posts
First, consider buying new cable at the hardware store. Chop off the 50 year old, kinked, and frayed old cable. Slightly drill out the two holes on the regulator so that you can thread a new cable in. Buy plenty of extra cable. Since your new cable won't be a one piece, fixed, length, you simply overlap them at the window lifter clamp. Now cable length and position of pulleys doesn't matter because you have plenty of extra cable and you can do all the tensioning of the cable at the clamp. You'll likely need to tighten the stretch in the cable after about a year and you'll now be able to do that easily at the clamp.:



Below is a picture of an intact passenger side door regulator and cable. Note that the window is almost all the way down and then note about how much upper and lower cable is wound onto the regulator. Note that the lower part of the cable winds towards the window and that the upper cable winds away from the window. When the window is all the way up or down, there will be approximately ONE full revolution of cable remaining on the regulator on the unwound side.

 

·
Über Genius
Joined
·
9,367 Posts
Now cable length and position of pulleys doesn't matter because you have plenty of extra cable and you can do all the tensioning of the cable at the clamp. You'll likely need to tighten the stretch in the cable after about a year and you'll now be able to do that easily at the clamp.:
If you do the original tensioning with the pulleys in the closest position then when you need to retension the cable you would just have to loosen the pulley, pull it tight, and tighten back up. Much easier than trying to pull two cables simultaneously while tightening that little bolt.
 

·
Paul and Amanda Opelers
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
These are FABULOUS photos and posts - thanks!! We started off figuring a way to get it all to work with the original cable (which was in good condition BTW, after a lot of cleaning before lube reapplication)... BUT - something funny happened... well not really that funny :)

... Did you know that there are TWO identical sets of the bolt patterns for the regulator in the GT driver's door? (at least there are in mine....) So Amanda was dutifully off to figure out the system, while I was tracking old distributor wires, ...and then she let out a "ahh, crap!" yelp, when she was all done; she'd tried to put the vinyl cover back over the driver door (with the window working PERFECTLY, and she was on a high!)... only to find the hole for the handle was for the UPPER bolt pattern, not the lower, where she had it (and where the passenger Door is set up for)...!!!

We averted a mental melt down and tried to move the Regulator CAREFULLY up to the upper bolt pattern - and yet found that - "oh yeah, that's why I had the door apart back in 2009, there was too much cable slack!"... It also seeks that, in the upper pattern, the slack-to-taut delta is bigger... And we could NOT get the cable right in the new regulator position...

So we cut the old cable... thinking that worst case, we DID have the replacement spool of old wire on the bench to go all the way back and put that in....

At first we attempted to get the wire to cross at the clamp, just like in the photo above - but there was not enough room! In the process of using a smaller cable clamp (I have from my aviation pursuits, elsewhere on a free run of the cable (checking the max extent of travel so any clamp would not run into the pulley(s) at either end of its up-down run)... we accidentally let one loop uncoil off the regulator drum - but caught it, pursuant to some profanity as well lol... well - we said what the heck, and tried this now new addition of cable length off the spool by hand-holding both ends - and the window still seemed aligned and worked 100% - so we tried AGAIN at the window's track clamp - but the unspooling of cable was not enough for doing it there - so we used that little brass cylinder-shaped cable clamp in the bottom run between up-down extremes. Then locked off the wires by crimp & duct. Seemed to work well - so far. If it pops-boingy in a month, I will let you all know! But is seems to be another way to "skin a cat", to get the tension right. But the idea to use two free ends - is superb!

In sum - many thanks! and If you had not heard - be sure to get the correct upper-vs-lower bolt patterns for the regulators in the door - both were clones of each other LOL!

Paul (and Amanda)
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top