Just Some Dude in Jersey
I think charlie pulled a fast one so he could win this year. Everybody has GTX fatigue...I wasn't in a good mood and everyone wanted to talk to me about my car trouble and I was sick of it after 5 weeks of talking about it and working on it. I got some good tips on things to try though.
I'm no engine guru, but I did sleep in a Best Western Hotel. I'm pretty sure that if you are at TDC the pointer on the bell housing should be pointing at the round mark on the flywheel and the line on the cam shaft ledge behind the timing cover should be aligned with the round mark on the cam sprocket. You have to have those things lined up or your dizzy position is meaningless.So I checked timing with the car off. Rotated the distributor rotor to line up with the mark at 5:00 on the distributor housing. That puts the first piston at exactly TDC and it is. The BB on the fly wheel is about 3/4 inch below the pointer. What does that mean.
Should there be any play in the rotor, that is should it move back and forth by hand. My moves back and forth by about 1/4 inch.
You wouldn't believe how many people I had to pay to vote for him. Some guys wouldn't take anything less than 100 bucks. At least now we don't have to listen to him whine that he never wins a trophy or gets recognition for all the great work he has done for us.
this means your timing is set to around 5-15* btdc. when rotor hits #1 and delivers spark, it is noit quite at TDC. your timing looks good. somewhere here on forum someone measured exactly how teeth translates to degrees on flywheel. sounds like about 10BTDC to me.So I checked timing with the car off. Rotated the distributor rotor to line up with the mark at 5:00 on the distributor housing. That puts the first piston at exactly TDC and it is. The BB on the fly wheel is about 3/4 inch below the pointer. What does that mean.
The most important part is to use the thick gasket (phenolic spacer) that’s actually what the Ford Mercury gasket OGTS sells is is a phenolic spacer coated with gasket material. Since there’s a variety of different ways I’m just going to share my success, there are many other ways to do it with gasket sealer etc.. One thing that happens to the base of the Weber 32/36 is people (myself included when I was younger) unknowingly over torque the mounting nuts and that causes the base to not be flush or flat. First thing I did was to have a piece of thick glass cut about 10” x 3” x ⅜” then get a pack of 3M 03008 3-2/3" x 9" Emery Cloth with Assorted Grit Sizes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FP8HUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hCy4CbRP1MX14So It appears that I have a small vacuum leak at the gasket between the carb and the manifold, specifically on the back nearest the fire wall . Since I am going to be taking this apart do you recommend the thicker gasket and a heat shield - anything thing else, while the carb is off you can recommend would be appreciated.