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The Young One
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Will a brake booster and master cylinder from a manta work on a GT? A guy I know has one and I wondered if it would work? It would be a lot cheaper than buying a brand new one. I am pretty sure it is in very good condition.

Thanks Sam
 

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The boosters are completely different on a Manta.


Early Manta’s (1971-1972) used an ATE master cylinder that would fit a GT booster however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The boosters are completely different on a Manta.


Early Manta’s (1971-1972) used an ATE master cylinder that would fit a GT booster however.
Ok, I think the booster is from a 1975 manta.

Do you think that anyone would want to trade for one or are the manta ones not worth much?
 

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Detritus Maximus
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Is the booster or the master or both that you need?
I wouldn't trust any old masters without getting a rebuild kit. It's not hard to do on a GT, Kadett, or early Manta.
Boosters are another matter. I'm not sure how to test them without actually installing.
Unless someone can guarantee you what they have works, it's a bit of a hassle to install a booster in a GT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is the booster or the master or both that you need?
I wouldn't trust any old masters without getting a rebuild kit. It's not hard to do on a GT, Kadett, or early Manta.
Boosters are another matter. I'm not sure how to test them without actually installing.
Unless someone can guarantee you what they have works, it's a bit of a hassle to install a booster in a GT.
The master cylinder is leaking into the booster. Eventually I will buy a new master cylinder and booster from ogts, but they are expensive and the brakes still work.
 

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Detritus Maximus
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Then I would try rebuilding the master. There is a seal at the back of it that is leaking. Possibly due to corrosion at the back of the master.
You would need a rebuild kit and a ball hone with a size range for the diameter of the cylinder. It's not real hard to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Then I would try rebuilding the master. There is a seal at the back of it that is leaking. Possibly due to corrosion at the back of the master.
You would need a rebuild kit and a ball hone with a size range for the diameter of the cylinder. It's not real hard to do.
My grandpa says that it would be safer to just buy a new master and booster. Will rebuilding them be safe too?
 

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Detritus Maximus
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If by 'safer' you mean guaranteed to work, then yes, I would agree with grandpa.
As long as there is no damage inside the master, a honing and new seals/pistons in the master should be fine.....and cheaper.
If you are working on a budget, I would rebuild the master, remove the fluid from the booster and see how it is.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If by 'safer' you mean guaranteed to work, then yes, I would agree with grandpa.
As long as there is no damage inside the master, a honing and new seals/pistons in the master should be fine.....and cheaper.
If you are working on a budget, I would rebuild the master, remove the fluid from the booster and see how it is.
I will probably take it apart before I buy any parts and see if it is too bad to repair.
 

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Will a brake booster and master cylinder from a manta work on a GT? A guy I know has one and I wondered if it would work? It would be a lot cheaper than buying a brand new one. I am pretty sure it is in very good condition.

Thanks Sam
Just an input from an old guy who has always done everything himself......it has been my experience that unless you know what to look for as far as pitting or corrosion on brake parts, it is best to buy new or remanufactured. OGTS often runs sales on master / booster sets. Add them to your email list. A-1 Cardone, Rock Auto, and other online sellers often have very reasonable prices on critical parts like this. 70's brakes are not like the ones of today. Not much safety features to stop you if they fail. Maybe a red light will come on just seconds before the impact and that is ONLY if the ground has not corroded.......LOL. I know money is an issue on budget builds, but a wreck on a legal go-kart can cost so much more..... be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just an input from an old guy who has always done everything himself......it has been my experience that unless you know what to look for as far as pitting or corrosion on brake parts, it is best to buy new or remanufactured. OGTS often runs sales on master / booster sets. Add them to your email list. A-1 Cardone, Rock Auto, and other online sellers often have very reasonable prices on critical parts like this. 70's brakes are not like the ones of today. Not much safety features to stop you if they fail. Maybe a red light will come on just seconds before the impact and that is ONLY if the ground has not corroded.......LOL. I know money is an issue on budget builds, but a wreck on a legal go-kart can cost so much more..... be safe.
I have bought a bunch of parts off rock auto but I don’t think that they have master cylinders and boosters. I will have to check the email thing for ogts.
 

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I have bought a bunch of parts off rock auto but I don’t think that they have master cylinders and boosters. I will have to check the email thing for ogts.
Don't be afraid to call or e-mail the OGTS team and ask for used parts as well. They have a large inventory of used parts. I personally get a faster response by calling. The used parts that I have received were in very good condition.
 

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Will a brake booster and master cylinder from a manta work on a GT? A guy I know has one and I wondered if it would work? It would be a lot cheaper than buying a brand new one. I am pretty sure it is in very good condition.

Thanks Sam
Young GT Owner, not trying to be a worry wart, but the "Young" in your title is making me say this.....DO NOT take the brake booster apart !! Much like the front spring on a GT, it will take your head off !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Young GT Owner, not trying to be a worry wart, but the "Young" in your title is making me say this.....DO NOT take the brake booster apart !! Much like the front spring on a GT, it will take your head off !!
Well my grandpa helps me with my car so I bet he knows how to do it. I sure hope I never have to take off the front spring since I have heard it is a little crazy.
 

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Detritus Maximus
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Young GT Owner, not trying to be a worry wart, but the "Young" in your title is making me say this.....DO NOT take the brake booster apart !! Much like the front spring on a GT, it will take your head off !!
So everyone is clear, I was only suggesting to rebuild the master cylinder, leave a booster rebuild to the professionals.

And yes, Gil can probably supply a rebuildable master, if it's needed.

I guess my point is, if you have to work on a budget, something like this is easy to learn to do. In fact, you can practise on rear wheel cylinders. Very simple, easy to see inside (from both ends). And they probably need rebuilding as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So everyone is clear, I was only suggesting to rebuild the master cylinder, leave a booster rebuild to the professionals.

And yes, Gil can probably supply a rebuildable master, if it's needed.

I guess my point is, if you have to work on a budget, something like this is easy to learn to do. In fact, you can practise on rear wheel cylinders. Very simple, easy to see inside (from both ends). And they probably need rebuilding as well.
I will see what I am going to do once i figure out what kind of condition they are in.

I also bought new rear wheel cylinders since they were very bad and new ones of rock auto were only $13 each.
 

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Detritus Maximus
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Given the $65 price tag on the 1.9 GT master cylinder kit and a rebuilt master being $99, right now, on-sale I think. I would just skip to the rebuilt master. If you're is not rebuildable, by the time you buy/ship a used one, you'll be close enough to $99 that you'll be wondering why you didn't the whole time you're messing around doing the rebuild.
If it was a $30 kit, it would be worth doing just to learn.
Get the rebuilt unit, clean out the booster (brake vacuum pump or turkey baster and rubber hose) and be done. I believe there may be an additional rubber cup or something that slips into/onto the booster, make sure if there is one that it is good.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Given the $65 price tag on the 1.9 GT master cylinder kit and a rebuilt master being $99, right now, on-sale I think. I would just skip to the rebuilt master. If you're is not rebuildable, by the time you buy/ship a used one, you'll be close enough to $99 that you'll be wondering why you didn't the whole time you're messing around doing the rebuild.
If it was a $30 kit, it would be worth doing just to learn.
Get the rebuilt unit, clean out the booster (brake vacuum pump or turkey baster and rubber hose) and be done. I believe there may be an additional rubber cup or something that slips into/onto the booster, make sure if there is one that it is good.
Ok cool I will take a look into it.
 

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So everyone is clear, I was only suggesting to rebuild the master cylinder, leave a booster rebuild to the professionals.

And yes, Gil can probably supply a rebuildable master, if it's needed.

I guess my point is, if you have to work on a budget, something like this is easy to learn to do. In fact, you can practise on rear wheel cylinders. Very simple, easy to see inside (from both ends). And they probably need rebuilding as well.
You did only say the master cylinder, but we were all young once and wondered what was in that booster........I still can hear my late father tearing my head off 45 years ago when I had one in the vise with chisel and hammer in hand.
 
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