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Discussion Starter #61
Well I had a set back today. It seems the PO or someone tried to repair the front suspension UCA rubber bushings. They modified the original steel sleeves and bushings to make non stock rubber bushings fit. So now I've got to get replacement sleeves and bushings to put the new poly bushings in one of the UCAs. What a PIA. I've attached a pic of some of the damaged pieces. What's really a pain is they destroyed the original steel sleeves by grinding them thinner and put a larger sleeve over it so the non-stock rubber bushings would fit and tore the steel bushing with something getting it out. In the pic, it shows what I took out of the UCA and the steel sleeve on the right is an original OE sleeve.
 

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Re: Bushings

!**! - or words to that effect .....

At least one side has the bits you need so you can determine which ones they are:
69-71 have 0.710" OD on the inner sleeve and 72-73 have 0.745" OD

Also check to see which ID your Poly bushes you have ......]

Guess all you need then are some used suspension bushes the correct size.

If the outer steel sleeve is a bit loose in the A-arm it can be welded in to place - the important thing is that the inner surface is smooth as the poly bush actually rotates in there and/or on the inner sleeve as the poly does not twist to deform like the OEM rubber used to. The poly bushes are designed to rotate onthe inner sleeve - you should see lubrication retaining grooves on the ID - uses teflon lubricant. No lube = heaps of squeeking :eek:
 

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Re: Bushings

GTJIM said:
If the outer steel sleeve is a bit loose in the A-arm it can be welded in to place - the important thing is that the inner surface is smooth as the poly bush actually rotates in there and/or on the inner sleeve as the poly does not twist to deform like the OEM rubber used to. The poly bushes are designed to rotate onthe inner sleeve - you should see lubrication retaining grooves on the ID - uses teflon lubricant. No lube = heaps of squeeking :eek:
Jim, best to have the inner sleeve be the pivot point. In fact, I like to install grease fittings in the outer sleeves not only to allow for a lubrication point, but to 'lock' the bushing into place against the outer sleeve. A small hole drilled to feed the inner sleeve allows for squeak and bind-free suspension articulation. The only other thing to remember is to invert the cup-shaped washers so they don't bind the poly bushings as well. This is most often overlooked, even though OGTS clearly dictates it needs to be done in their instructions!

Bob
 

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Re: Bushings

RallyBob said:
Jim, best to have the inner sleeve be the pivot point. In fact, I like to install grease fittings in the outer sleeves not only to allow for a lubrication point, but to 'lock' the bushing into place against the outer sleeve. A small hole drilled to feed the inner sleeve allows for squeak and bind-free suspension articulation. The only other thing to remember is to invert the cup-shaped washers so they don't bind the poly bushings as well. This is most often overlooked, even though OGTS clearly dictates it needs to be done in their instructions!

Bob
Thank you, Bob! I am fitting a set of these for the first time and could see that they were designed to pivot on the inner bore - but know that A. Murphy lurks and watches for these jobs so he can mess them up.
The "double duty" grease nipple will take care of rotation AND lube issues.
The tip about the cup washers also answers one of the nagging questions I had - no instructions with the set of poly bushes I got - off e-Bay, not from OGTS I hasten to add. I shall be drilling and tapping grease nipple holes tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Bob, a very good point on the washers, If you check out the inner sleeve it is serrated on each end and will dig into the washer so neither will rotate, and if the bolts are torqued correctly and the washers installed wrong every thing will bind up and something will break. When I talked to Gil at OGTS, to order the new pieces, he was very adamant about that. Because of the bolt from hell that I had in the main beam, I opted not to install zerk fittings to lube the bushings, rather, I will remove the assembly at scheduled intervals and lube the whole mess, so I don't go through this again. Once is too much. I did order and receive a cartridge tube of "NEO" watercraft grease, which is teflon based, and supposedly the same lube you get with the Poly bushings. All of the attaching hardware will be coated with it, except for the threads, they will be coated with MIL Spec anti-sieze compound. 2 steps forward, 1 back. Not fun, but getting there. :rolleyes:
 

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Re: Bushings

GTJIM said:
At least one side has the bits you need so you can determine which ones they are:
69-71 have 0.710" OD on the inner sleeve and 72-73 have 0.745" OD
That is correct for the LCA's (Lower Control Arms), but the UCA's (Upper Control Arms, which is what Ron had problems with) all had the same sleeve design.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
You're right Keith, the bolt from hell was in the UCA, pax side. Here's the latest, got a care package from OGTS today with the new calipers and the bushings/sleeves for the UCA. So hopefully I can begin the front suspension rebuild tomorrow. I have been asked by lotsa folks when you gonna have it done? My best guess is I'd like to have it done by the end of the year, for a special reason. Margaret's son's father-in-law will be here for Xmas. He owns several body and repair shops in Italy. When we went there for a visit, he took me to the shop he works at, you could eat off the floor in that shop, even when it's going full blast, totally unreal. Anyway, I'd like to give him a ride in the GT when he's here, so that's the target and reason. I've posted a pic that will further answer why it's taking so long, just for the curios. I don't know how many nuts bolts, washers, screws, etc., there are in a GT, or any car for that matter. But after sitting on the beach for 8 years, mine go a bit rusty, so everything coming out of the car will be cleaned, coated or painted as needed to prevent corrosion as much as possible. Along these lines, I go through at least 2 wire wheels a week cleaning the hardware as I take it off or before it goes together. The pic below show two of the four rubber bumpers from the UCA, one is ready to be painted, the other is going to get cleaned. It took about 10-15 minutes to clean the one. I just hope my hands can hold out, every now and then I slip and the wheel eats my hand. Lotsa fun. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Front Suspension Almost Done

Here's the latest with a couple of pics, got the front suspension all assembled by installing the main beam in the car and putting the UCAs, LCAs, spring, shocks, new upper and lower balljoints, and the spindles bolted in. Then took out the whole assembly and put it on the front porch for the time being, there's no room in the one-car garage for it. I haven't built the spring compressor yet, so the reason to install it in the car for assembly was by necessity. The steering and brakes will be cleaned, treated and painted with the POR and assembled on the main beam with new rubber all the way around, to go with the new poly bushings installed in the front and rear suspension. Then the engine and tranny come out for the last time. I'm still hoping to get it done by the end of the year, weather permitting. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Front Suspension is Done

Well It's almost the end of the week so I figured an update is due. The entire front suspension is complete now including new brake lines and hoses, calipers, rotors, pads, bearings, seals, rubber for the steering rack and poly bushings all the way around. Now if I just had some room to get it off the front porch, all would be nice. You may notice the rotors and calipers have some paint on them, I got the idea from Gil at OGTS, he suggested to paint the non wiped areas of the rotor to slow down rusting. So, as I have POR-20 high temp silver paint, why not. It will take the heat of the braking action and hopefully be a rust preventative too.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Well, life is good, we have Monday Night Football coming on soon, and the welder just left. He filled in all those annoying little holes that somehow got into the fender wells, fire wall, and foot well from all the after market thingies that have been put in the GT over the years. Oh yeah, and he did the final welding of the wiper well and the solid part of the fender well so I can now fabricate the access panel to get to the exhaust manifold bolts on the driver's side. When the panel and attaching nuts are welded up, the painting can commence and I can finish up the interior, bottom and engine compartment. After that, the reassembly begins as soon as the alternator and AC brackets are built for the engine. Slowly, very slowly, it's coming together. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
Well, it's getting closer. The welder left a bit ago and here's the result of his visit this time. Now, the interior and bottom front of the car can be painted. I was planning on doing the engine compartment too, but decided I need a seal in front of the cowl, I don't want vapors from the engine compartment coming inside the car. So I'll need to do the templates with the hood installed and transfer them to sheetmetal and call the welder in again. The little things that drive me crazy sometimes. :rolleyes:

But, this finishes up Phase III of the engine swap. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Darn, two weeks since that last update, Dog Shows do take up some time. I cleaned up the interior and decided I had to drop the nose of the car down in the front so the water will drain out of holes in the floor to expdite the drying process after spraying POR-15 Marine Clean in the interior and then vapor blasting it with my K'Archer. When it's all dried out, Metal Ready will be sprayed throughout the interior, and 20-30 minutes later it too will be hosed off. Then I can paint the rest of the interior. Although it looks like the car is sitting on the ground, there is a 4 X 4 sitting under the front jack points and the belly pan is actually 1" off the ground. Way back when we used to call it a serious "Rake" on the car. One of the perils of not having a flat floor to work on. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #74 (Edited)
Darn Rick, I thought I got back to you on them, must be old-timers disease, sorry. But yes, they will work just spiffy. A couple of folks told me I could put your narrower wheels (5/8") on the front or back, I forgot which, to even out the track differential on the car, front to rear. I started to work on one at our last outing at the dog shows, but was held up by socializing and other stuff. So, I'll be working on them here as I get to a no work situation on the GT from time to time. They definately won't take the 3-4 months per wheel to do that mine did. I did try them on the new front spindles and the fit snugger than mine did originally, so that in itself is a plus. Thanx again for the opportunity to get them from you. Now if I can just get to the point where I can have all 4 wheels on the ground again............ :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Well, it's another one of those days here inSANe DIEGO, 70+ degrees, lotsa sun, and relative humidity in the 60s, A perfect day to finish painting the interior of the GT. AND I RAN OUT OF PAINT! I thought I had enuff to do the job in the six-pack box I had, but when I opened it up there were only two 4 ounce cans in the box. Next week for sure, weather permitting, it will be finished, well, the interior anyway. RATS!!! :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #78
All the better to drain the water out after I chemically treat the metal for painting, Baz. BTW with all the stuff out of the car but the gas tank, that's how high it sits in the rear. Believe it or not, that's how low I had to get the front to allow the water to drain out and even then it's not really enuff, a couple of degrees more nose down would be better, but then the belly pan would be on the ground. :eek:
 

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Ron, if you're painting the interior with POR-15 products, isn't the paint supposed to adhere to their product? and if not what are you using to chemically treat the metal for painting? Just thoughts for the red one thats gutted like yours. Thanks, Jarrell
 

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Discussion Starter #80 (Edited)
Jarrell, I'm not going down to the metal anywhere inside or under the car, if the paint there is good, the POR-15 encapsulates it, what I've done so far on all the painting, is use their Marine Clean, spray it on, then hit it with my K'Archer vapor blaster, when it's dry spray it all down with their Metal Ready, just in case there's some bare metal in the area, keep it wet for 20-30 minutes, then hose it all down again. After it's dry and up to 4 days later it can be painted with their POR-15 paints, then a top coat. At least that's what their directions say to do and what I was told over the phone by them. HTH.
 
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