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I did the same thing on parts of the brown one, but I was going to redo the red one entirely like you have done. When you say a top coat, are you speaking about theirs or the painters? I painted the entire engine compartment with POR-15, looks ok, just too dark. I wanted to do the same thing interior/exterior and then send it to the painters and have it shot the original red. Thanks, Jarrell
 

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Discussion Starter #82
You can use any quality paint over the POR-15, just read the directions and prep it like they suggest for great results. I did my headlight buckets and covers, and finished them with their Sterling Silver and then their Glisten PC clear. I put one in the headlight hole two years ago and it looks like the one I kept in the garage, except it's dustier/dirtier, so I'm well pleased with they way it turned out. HTH.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Well, it's been 2 weeks since the last update so I guess I should say something about howgozit. THE INTERIOR IS PAINTED . Now, as soon as we get a good Santa Ana, that's a warm breeze from the desert, I can paint the bottom front of the car and finish up the engine compartment. Then it all starts going back together. YAY. :D
 

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Ron,

Looks like you are making great headway on your V6 project. Mine has taken nearly 3 years to get where I am at. A lot of it was getting the body work squared around. :eek:

Your posts are great inspiration on keeping me going on mine. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Thanx for the kind words, Greg. It looks like it will take the same amount of time for both of us to finish these projects. I have another delay now, the city decided it would be a good time to correct a storm drain puddling problem that has been in existence for over 20 years, down the street. Until they pour the concrete and lay the asphalt in the road, I can't do any excessive water application on the GT. Which means no Marine Clean or Metal Ready application for a while. So in the meantime, it'll be little bits and pieces that will get prepped for assembly. I noticed in your gallery, you don't recommend putting your engine/tranny in from the top. I don't understand that, it's how mine goes in easily. All I have to do is remove the crank pulley and it slides right in with all 4 tires on the ground. I like your hood, neat, you going to use cowl induction for the air intake, or is there not enuff room between the engine and hood. I'm still thinking about my set-up, but plan to use the nostrils in the Lenk Tuning hood I have. Keep us updated on howgozit. :D
 

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Ron,

The insertion of the motor from the top was difficult as I did still have crank balancer on the front. I had to bend the cowl panel to get it in that way. And then once in, it was very difficult to get the bolts out from the back where I mounted chain to pick the motor. Maybe I still had more stuff on my motor than you did...

The front suspension is so easy to remove, 8 bolts + the steering knuckle bolt, and that stuff is out of your way. I just merely took a 3/4 piece of plywood, layed it over my heavy duty creeper, and dropped the motor on it. It was nice, because I could roll that baby any where I wanted. :cool: I've decided that I am going to make a special attaching plate the pick the motor from the front, and just use a floor jack for the back of the tranny.

I understand all about delays! My project has evolved over the last 10 years. I originally was going to do an 1.9L rebuild a long time ago. Then I going to the 2.0, 2.2, 2.4L engine swap kick. But I wanted something more, until I found Pilkerton's article in the OANA newsletter. I have be kind of using that article as my road map, but only trying to improve upon it. Needless to say, it was made it take much longer. The body work phase of my car took at least 3 years, and several people's help to get it where it is at. The fact it is one color again is great motivation, as I have pretty much taken every nut, bolt, and screw off that darn car (years ago); now got to figure out where they all go again... :confused:

The scoop evolved early in my project as upon first test fits of the 3.4L, I felt that the top front edge of the intake plenum, might hit the hood. Plus I wanted to avoid the possibility of poor air circulation thru the engine compartment. I didn't intent on setting up the induction equipment for that type of hood. I am just going to mount a grille on the end, to allow air to flow through. I also bought a sound deadening pad for a honda rear floor section (which is a 4' x 4' sheet), cut it out, and attached it to the bottom side of the hood and scoop. It looks cool with the honeycomb pattern on it. Thus it will cut down heat penetration and sound, plus it made the hood scoop area more strong. I intent to fit hood shocks, like you see on newer cars, for both side of the hood; as the hood weighs more now. The original hood prop is too flimsy. :p

Your exhaust manifolds are very interesting, I have a set of the fiero ones, but, have been trying to figure out if I can do it differently. And I keep come back to the same answer, which is no (at least on the drivers side). The passenger side has plenty of room to build a custom header.

Which side of the block does your alternator mount on to? My '94 3.4L bolts to the passenger's side; Pilkerton's article pictures (which is a '92 3.1L) appears to be on the driver's side.

I'll be putting more pics up today, and probably should start a diary on my project as well for others...
 

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Discussion Starter #87 (Edited)
v6transplant said:
Ron,
The insertion of the motor from the top was difficult as I did still have crank balancer on the front. I had to bend the cowl panel to get it in that way. And then once in, it was very difficult to get the bolts out from the back where I mounted chain to pick the motor. Maybe I still had more stuff on my motor than you did...
From what I saw in your pics other than the crank pulley the engines are close to being the same as far as stuff on them during installation. I used the factory lift ring on the driver's side and a bolt in the front of the head on the pax side for the lift chain. I drop the tranny tailshaft on a floor jack and slide everything in place, without removing the front suspension.

v6transplant said:
The body work phase of my car took at least 3 years, and several people's help to get it where it is at. The fact it is one color again is great motivation, as I have pretty much taken every nut, bolt, and screw off that darn car (years ago); now got to figure out where they all go again... :confused:
I know that that feeling well, I've got boxes and boxes of parts and pieces laying all over the garage, inside the house and on the patio. It will be fun putting it all back together again.

v6transplant said:
I intent to fit hood shocks, like you see on newer cars, for both side of the hood; as the hood weighs more now. The original hood prop is too flimsy. :p
Gas struts are in the works for my hood also, as soon as I can figure how to get it to lock down and be released using the "T"-handle in the dash. I'll probably use an overcenter setup on the struts also.

v6transplant said:
Your exhaust manifolds are very interesting, I have a set of the fiero ones, but, have been trying to figure out if I can do it differently. And I keep come back to the same answer, which is no (at least on the drivers side). The passenger side has plenty of room to build a custom header.
I opted to go with a similar setup, like the Fiero manifolds, only because I wanted both sides of the exhaust to be the same, with the starter installed I didn't see enuff room for a header, so the manifold setup was made based on seeing the stuff Rally Bob did on the FI engine for Carlisle last year.
v6transplant said:
Which side of the block does your alternator mount on to? My '94 3.4L bolts to the passenger's side; Pilkerton's article pictures (which is a '92 3.1L) appears to be on the driver's side.
My Alternator will be on a custom plate on the pax side to include the auto belt tensioner, I need the driver's side free so I can mount the AC compressor again on a custom plate.

Mike Pilkenton and Nathan Acree are the two folks that are responsible for me making this engine swap, Mike because he already did it, and Nathan, because between the two of us, now three, can show it can be done.

v6transplant said:
I'll be putting more pics up today, and probably should start a diary on my project as well for others...
You can do what I did in the Articles Section, that way it will be available for all to see and make comparisons if they want. Two ideas or opinions on how to do something are better than one or none.
 

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Well, I hope soon there will be a fourth one showing that it can be done! :D
 

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A/C Compressor

Ron, The compressor you asked about comes off '95-01 Geo Metros and Suzuki Swifts and is a Sanden SD 7B10 Model #4622 - often available rebuilt on eBay for a bit over $100.
Here are a couple of pics with a ruler for dimensions - note that the inlet/outlet is on top of the compressor and not at the back end.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Jim, thanx for the response, it does look promising, is that a mounting bolt coming out of the rear plate? Just for those curious, I started to lay out the accessory plates for the AC and alternator on the V-6. The Delphi GM compressor is too long by a couple of inches, which is a bummer, after I spent a lot of bucks getting the hose assembly manifold modified for the R134 refrigerant to fit the original system. So, I've got a couple of choices, Find a compressor less than 6 inches in length, with the fittings other than the rear, or get another crank belt pully and tensioner, weld the pulley to the existing one and adapt the tensioner to fit. That would only give me another 1 1/2 inches from the driver's side head, where the unit will have to be mounted. One step forward, two steps back, heck of a dance step. :(
 

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It is not a mounting bolt , Ron. It looks like some part of the fluid system - may be a relief valve or some such but I don't really know.
The unit is very tiny compared to anything else I have seen though.
There was some discussion about this comprssor in a thread on GT AirCon a while ago.
 

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Find a compressor less than 6 inches in length, with the fittings other than the rear

Try the Sanden SD5H09 (mine came from Vintage Air). Without the pulley, it meets your needs. Nothing at the back and fittings on top.
 

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Wow thats a small a/c pump :eek:

Hummm, that will make me re-think about installing a/c now...

Thanks for the info :)
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Jim, Bob, Greg, et.al., much as I hate to say it, none of those will work. I just double checked by laying a straight edge across the crank pulley and measuring from the flat machined surface of the head to the straight edge and it is 6.5 inches. I figured initially 1/2 inch for a mounting plate to bolt to the head and the depth of the bolt heads would take up the 1/2 inch. That would leave 6 inches for the total length of the compressor to the front edge of the grooved pulley. My idea to weld another crank pulley to my existing one fell through too, there's not enuff room between the crank pulley and the front suspension crossmember. So putting the AC back in the GT is on hold right now until I put the engine back in and see if I can mount a compressor outboard of the valve cover on the driver's side. Rats. :( And it looks like I'll have to build another set of exhaust manifolds. The 1 1/4" tubing doesn't leave enuff room for the ARP bolt heads to fit flush on the flange. Now I've got to see about 1 1/8" ID tubing for new manifolds, that the actual exhaust port size, maybe a mixture of a log manifold made from header tubing will fit the bill. Back to the drawing board, again. :mad:
 

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I did a basic search on the Sanden compressor, and I think it may apper to be a little smaller.

Here's a couple of spec's (measurements in mm). :)

I'd wait until the motor was back in, becuse it always seems like you have more room than is acutally there... :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Greg, looking at the space I have from the head to the front edge of the grooved crank pulley, anything over 159 mm from the rear of the compressor to the front edge of the grooved pulley will be too long to mount in front of the head. BTW, I am using a serpentine pulley setup, but it doesn't make any difference between it and a standard grooved pulley, because if I changed the pulleys, the same problem would be there, as rear edge of either pulley would start at the same place. I think I'll wait, as you suggest and I stated earlier, until the package is back in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Well, I've had some real setbacks so far this last week. I broke off a tap in the upper exhaust bolt hole on #4 on the V-6, so I'll be spending a lot of time with my Dremel and carbide cutters (thanx to OpelDean for those), making dust out of what's left of the tool. And yesterday to really ice the cake, coming back to the house after getting some Tostito's, to watch the Chargers game, some old fogey ran into the monza. Raked it from bumper to bumper. What was really maddening was, the body was in pristine shape, except for a few areas of body cancer, and was going to be next in line for the restoration process, after the GT. I think I was lucky, in that the front bumper didn't get the lense in the front fender. They're harder to get than the GT lenses, as in non-existent. At least the Chargers won, so I guess it wasn't all that bad a day.
 

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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
Xmas Came Early

After all the bad stuff lately, here's a pic of some good stuff. I got 4 wheels from Rick Bennet in "Jawja" a while back, and after trying to polish one, I sent a pair of wheels I sent to Anaheim Plating, in, of course, Anaheim, CA, and for a total of $34.06 to send and $166.24 to receive, or about $100 and some change a wheel, here's what "Brown" delivered about 30 minutes ago. The wheel on the ground is one from Rick, it wasn't bad, just really porous and hard to polish, which was the reason I sent the wheels out.

What's that old saying? "If it don't go, Chrome it" :D
 

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I am glad it worked for you!!

Boy do they look sharp!! I never thought they would look that shiny! They are so bright I have to wear shades :cool:

I know every thing else you are doing will turn out as sharp. :D It just may take a little time.

It well get better the light at the end of the tunnel is not a train coming the other way it is actually the end of the tunnel!! ;)
 
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