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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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New Engine? Just curious, what does that cost?
A rebuilt to 2.0 with big valves is the most common and easiest route that most people have chosen. All your original stuff will fit it. I would have a nice new one right now, but I got talked into a rare 2.4 from Europe. PITA to get it all just right. Add to that the original, never available here, Opel Motronic FI system and you've got even more of a PITA. I'm just doing it for the challenge and to give me a nice long project to do.

Put a call out for someone to sell you a lightly used 2.0. You might be able to get one for less than a thousand. A big valve head and 2.0 block from Opel GT Source will cost you $2000 and you'll have to swap parts over from your old engine.

If you contact Goin Manta(Charles Goin), our current engine rebuilder, he might be able to give you a deal on a 2.0 or a rebuild to 2.0 of your present engine. Maybe $1500 or less. Or you can let him talk you into a 2.2/2.4 engine and then you can spend a bunch more money.

:veryhappy
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Pulled the tank. The PO, or 2 owners ago, lined the tank about 20 years ago. The liner is failing. I plan to buy the POR-15 kit but wonder if it will be strong enough to pull the failing liner off.

I scrapped off some of the black coating. There are also some reddish veins. Seems like the coating separated or was not well mixed. The tank is solid. The mesh sock was still over the outlet. I broke that up and will flush it out when I clean it.
 

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A rebuilt to 2.0 with big valves is the most common and easiest route that most people have chosen. All your original stuff will fit it. I would have a nice new one right now, but I got talked into a rare 2.4 from Europe. PITA to get it all just right. Add to that the original, never available here, Opel Motronic FI system and you've got even more of a PITA. I'm just doing it for the challenge and to give me a nice long project to do.

Put a call out for someone to sell you a lightly used 2.0. You might be able to get one for less than a thousand. A big valve head and 2.0 block from Opel GT Source will cost you $2000 and you'll have to swap parts over from your old engine.

If you contact Goin Manta(Charles Goin), our current engine rebuilder, he might be able to give you a deal on a 2.0 or a rebuild to 2.0 of your present engine. Maybe $1500 or less. Or you can let him talk you into a 2.2/2.4 engine and then you can spend a bunch more money.

:veryhappy
Thanks for the info. I'm not anywhere near the engine yet but I'm curious of cost. For sure I'd prefer to have a fresh drivetrain in the car but I'm hoping the engine in it is good for now. I haven't done a compression test yet but it did run ok with no smoke in the exhaust so I have my fingers crossed hoping all is well. The engine has 70k on it. Are the 1900's known for longevity?
 

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Pulled the tank. The PO, or 2 owners ago, lined the tank about 20 years ago. The liner is failing. I plan to buy the POR-15 kit but wonder if it will be strong enough to pull the failing liner off.

I scrapped off some of the black coating. There are also some reddish veins. Seems like the coating separated or was not well mixed. The tank is solid. The mesh sock was still over the outlet. I broke that up and will flush it out when I clean it.
Damn, that's ugly! At least it's not your oil pan.
 

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Opeler
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1,354 Posts
Pulled the tank. The PO, or 2 owners ago, lined the tank about 20 years ago. The liner is failing. I plan to buy the POR-15 kit but wonder if it will be strong enough to pull the failing liner off.

I scrapped off some of the black coating. There are also some reddish veins. Seems like the coating separated or was not well mixed. The tank is solid. The mesh sock was still over the outlet. I broke that up and will flush it out when I clean it.
If you want a first class refurb of that tank, look for a shop in your area that uses the Gas Tank Renu process. They hot tank the tank, sandblast it inside and out, pressure test it for leaks and repair any they find. They then coat the outside with lizard skin coating and epoxy the inside, then bake it to accelerate the cure of the coatings.
During the cleaning process, they cut windows in between the baffles in order to be able to completely blast clean all of the tank interior and baffle surfaces. They then weld up the windows prior to pressure testing. I did this last year on my 944 tank and am well pleased with the work. Cost was about $400. New tank cost was $1500. A no-brainer for me. Good Luck!
 

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I've got a list too:

1. Pull the dashboard and see if I can get the little lights that illuminate the rocker switches working again. Also while in there see about the aux cable that is attached to my reto-rodded original radio and why it doesn't work.

2. I have way too much play in my steering and tightening the damper on top of the rack and pinion steering didn't fix the issue.

3. Keep working on fixing all the minor dings and scratches in my paint job using my airbrush and then sanding to blend it in and keep messing with my drivers side door that is warped.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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13,785 Posts
Are the 1900's known for longevity?
I remember hearing that the 1.9's held the record for longest lasting engine of it's type. 400,000 on the odo wasn't unusual.

I had a 1.9 converted to a high compression 2.0 with big valves that I drove for 225K miles. Still running like a kitten when I sold it 15 years ago and that car is still road worthy today.

How many car company's engines from the 60's can you think of that were worth a dang after 100K miles?

:veryhappy
 

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I remember hearing that the 1.9's held the record for longest lasting engine of it's type. 400,000 on the odo wasn't unusual.

I had a 1.9 converted to a high compression 2.0 with big valves that I drove for 225K miles. Still running like a kitten when I sold it 15 years ago and that car is still road worthy today.

How many car company's engines from the 60's can you think of that were worth a dang after 100K miles?

:veryhappy
That's very encouraging to hear! I'll look forward to many miles of blissful driving.
 

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Über Genius
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8,748 Posts
Most of the opel GTs that I've picked up over the course of my life have had between 70,000 and 90,000 miles on the odometer.
Some/most have had engine problems, namely a head related problem.

Having said that, if one were to take care of the coolant {adding an overflow tank) and change the oil regularly, I can't see a reason why the engines can't go well over 200,000.

My sons gt had about 50k after a rebuild when we took it apart and there was virtually no wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
  1. Rear deck done. Tank done. Sending unit fixed. C'mon spring.
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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,035 Posts
I got my Opel GT from an original owner with 122,000 on a stock 1.9 which now has over 123,000
with good compression and oil pressure 3.2 at idle. I bet this engine will go way over 200,000 :yup:
Certainly possible.... the block I just had bored for the current rebuild had around 275k miles on it when I pulled it from a '72 Manta. Car was done, engine was not!
 
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