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Discussion Starter #1
DISCLAIMER: I checked Air Horns in search

Can anybody help with wiring up air horns to be able to use the horn button on the wheel?

Thanks
 

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Wolf Spyder said:
DISCLAIMER: I checked Air Horns in search
So you did. But did you remember this Moderator's Pet Peeve? Please only post threads in the GT Forum that are NOT covered in the Technical Forums, and SPECIFICALLY relate to questions about the GT (such as "how many GT's were built in 1970" and such).

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Jeff, It did come with a relay and a pump. The wiring diagram that came with it is not clear. Eventhough I've found the wires on the old horns, I want to go from the fuse box with new wires. The old ones are brittle :rolleyes:

Thanks,

kwilford said:
Moderator's Pet Peeve?

Lashes received.
 

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Use the power wire that normally goes to the horn to power the pump. I believe it is fused, mine is/was. Use a wiring diagram and connect the horn power to the original location in the harness. Next ground the pump to the body. Mount pump on cross brace where old horns were located. Then mount horns. Be sure to point the horns down if you are placing them in the nose of the car, so that they do not accumulate water.

Oh-Thanks for the PM, I'll get the info tonight and call 'em.
 

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Stock horn wiring

Scott McDonald said:
Use the power wire that normally goes to the horn to power the pump. I believe it is fused, mine is/was. Use a wiring diagram and connect the horn power to the original location in the harness. Next ground the pump to the body. Mount pump on cross brace where old horns were located. Then mount horns. Be sure to point the horns down if you are placing them in the nose of the car, so that they do not accumulate water.

Oh-Thanks for the PM, I'll get the info tonight and call 'em.
NOTE: horn is powered by +12V when ignition key is turned on, but only activated (circuit completed) when horn button GROUNDS the horn circuit.

The way I read it, your wiring would power the horn (run pump) as soon as you turn the ignition key on. :eek:
 

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I'll go look outside, but I'm pretty sure that's how I wired it.
 

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True. I used the negative from the stock horn. Thanks Otto.
 

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Huh-uh. Stop, dudes. Don't try to power up an air compressor motor with a circuit that was designed to just make a little electromagnet vibrate a diaphragm to go "beep".
Use that beep circuit to energize the relay on demand(that's why it came with one), said relay would get its load power from an accessory fuse or circuit breaker.
Printed or cast into the relay should be a very clear schematic (electrical roadmap) of the relay functions and terminal connections.
Study this carefully and it will be simple to continue.
More later.
By the way, recently I was looking at your paint job in the photo gallery or garage or somewhere and was really impressed. I like a good flame job!
Did you do that?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
jeff denton said:
By the way, recently I was looking at your paint job in the photo gallery or garage or somewhere and was really impressed. I like a good flame job!
Did you do that?

Thanks Jeff. I whish I could claim it but the PO owns a shop and had the shell on display as an example of his work. He also had running '67 T'bird and '04 ford truck painted the same. The Gt was redundant in his eyes so I got it.

As to the horns, I did wire them up using the exhisting wires and they do work. However I agree with you that the relay comes with it for a reason and will install it as well.
 

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Air pump relay wiring

Wolf Spyder said:
Thanks Jeff. I whish I could claim it but the PO owns a shop and had the shell on display as an example of his work. He also had running '67 T'bird and '04 ford truck painted the same. The Gt was redundant in his eyes so I got it.

As to the horns, I did wire them up using the exhisting wires and they do work. However I agree with you that the relay comes with it for a reason and will install it as well.
SUGGESTION: Just move the existing horn wires (brown=ground, black/yellow=sw.+12V) to either side of the relay coil and run a 12 or 14 gauge wire from any sw. 12V source to the relay 30/common terminal and then from the relay 87/normally-open terminal to power the pump. THEN you can just ground the pump where ever it is mounted. Horn will not blow with key off.
 

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switch problem

hi all, i wired an air horn with relay into the horn circuit and it was working fine for about a year. it stopped worked so i began the search for the culprit. the brass ring and switch in the column looked fine and all connections were tight. i could hear clicking in the relay when i pressed the horn button. took the wires off the relay to check the connectors and replaced them all. pressed the button and jumped about 3 feet as the horn sounded. but, when i pressed it again, just clicking in the relay, no horn. bad relay or is there something i'm missing here??? why would it stop after one go?

bob
 

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Air Horns & OEM Horns

On previous GT, installed two position toggle switch under LH dash vent to enable usage of regular horns or my air horns. I wired with a relay due to higher current demand.

Still haven't spend the money or have the time to install LOUDER horns. And ... of course ... keeping the dash panel stock. So, no drilling into dash on this GT.

As mentioned, horn button completes circuit to ground.
 

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hi all, i wired an air horn with relay into the horn circuit and it was working fine for about a year. it stopped worked so i began the search for the culprit. the brass ring and switch in the column looked fine and all connections were tight. i could hear clicking in the relay when i pressed the horn button. took the wires off the relay to check the connectors and replaced them all. pressed the button and jumped about 3 feet as the horn sounded. but, when i pressed it again, just clicking in the relay, no horn. bad relay or is there something i'm missing here??? why would it stop after one go?

bob
You probably have a bad relay or a bad connection at the relay, of course since the horns are loud and produce vibration when sounded there is always the possibility that you have a bad connection at the horns also that is affected when the horns blow. I would put a meter right on the relay, since it clicks, and check for power or ground, depending on how you have it wired, and determine if the relay is bad, or pull it out and bench check it. Then work your way toward the horns from there.
 

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Thought I would ride on this ancient thread. During the course of restoration, I purchased new horns from SplendidParts, advertised as offering 100db. Eventually I decided they did not make enough sound, even when I was wearing my hearing aids, so I purchased the PIAA Sport Horn pair showing 500Hz on the low note and 600Hz on the high. These too, were unsatisfactory (anybody want some horns?). Years ago I purchased a set of air horns for my Triumph Spitfire, from Rimmer Brothers in England and I again turned to them for the solution -- part #RX1381 (Twin Air Horns - RX1381 - Ring | Rimmer Bros). The product is manufactured by Ring in the UK, their part #RAH122 (RAH122) advertised as offering 118db, with a low tone at 675Hz and the high tone
 

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Sorry for the miss-hit posting before completion. Let me begin again:

Thought I would ride on this ancient thread. During the course of restoration, I purchased new horns from SplendidParts, advertised as offering 100db. Eventually I decided they did not make enough sound, even when I was wearing my hearing aids, so I purchased the PIAA Sport Horn pair showing 500Hz on the low note and 600Hz on the high. These too, were unsatisfactory (anybody want some horns?). Years ago I purchased a set of air horns for my Triumph Spitfire, from Rimmer Brothers in England and I again turned to them for the solution -- part #RX1381 (Twin Air Horns - RX1381 - Ring | Rimmer Bros). The product is manufactured by Ring in the UK, their part #RAH122 (RAH122) advertised as offering 118db, with a low tone at 675Hz and the high tone offering 825Hz.

These horns work quite well, although there is some work involved in mounting them -- I fabricated a bracket from heavy aluminum stock that accommodates both the compressor and both horns, keeping air hose lengths quite short.

It is possible to wire the compressor in using the existing circuitry, but this is not advisable because it will place a heavy current load through the horn button contacts, leading to early failure. Installing the supplied relay allows existing wiring to be employed, although two additional wires will be required.

1. Connect the two "hot" Black/Yellow wires to the input terminals #86 and #30
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2. Connect any of the Brown wires to terminal #85 and tie off and insulate the other Brown wire connections so that they do not ground the system. The Brown wire runs to the horn button so that, when the button is pressed, a connection is made that energizes the low-current electromagnet inside the relay that in turn causes the Usually Open switch to close, connecting the circuit between terminals #30 and #87.

3. Install a new wire, 14-gauge, between terminal #87 and the positive terminal on the compressor

4. Add a new wire connecting the negative terminal of the compressor and any suitable ground.

The directions suggest use of a 10-amp fuse, but, so far, I have had no problems with the OEM 8-amp fuse that protects the Black/Yellow circuit.

Hope this is useful...
 
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