Zugstrebe Stut Rod

I'm not sure if the early Conrero GT's used the strut rod reinforcement or not. I still have to do more investigating.

Regarding lowering the car, Conrero used welded strips of metal added to the bottom sides of the lower a-arm, and drilled extra holes to allow for relocating the spring ends, which lowered the front of the car.

I will probably use a similar method to the raised ball joint in your photo...I have done this for years via another method...a Chrysler ball joint which is taller, and basically accomplishes the same thing. It also changes the roll center, which was more in line with my original intent. I can improve the camber gain substantially this way.

Before I make my GT into a Conrero replica and modify the body with flares, I have one other thing I've always wanted to try. I want to break the Land Speed Record for the class. It requires a stock body, no aerodynamic improvements, and a naturally aspirated 2.0 litre engine. The old class record was set in '85 by a FWD Dodge Charger with a 190 hp destroked 2.2 (NA, not turbo). I believe it still holds the record at Muroc, El Mirage, and Bonneville. I think I can top the record with a GT and some serious tweaking. Got my gearing and engine all figured out already.....

opelgt722002 said:

As I understand it, this will lower the front 1 7/8" without the harsh ride that usually results with lowering the GT. Does it also eliminate the bump steer issue?

Click to expand...

Yes it will lower the font of the GT. How much depends on where you install the sleeve in the arm and how deep you ream the spindle. You are correct in that it won't stiffen the front end as a stiffer spring would but it will be stiffer than if you had added shackles.

As for the bump steer it will depend greatly on the ream depth and ball joint placement but it will most likely make the bump steer worse.

One word of caution. I know that Bobs used the ball joints in a GT with his fiberglass spring but I don't know if he's
used a stock spring or any other aftermarket spring. I am currently using an OGTS spring and the eye at the end is HUGE. In fact, I had to modify the spring to prevent it from binding against the stock ball joint which is MUCH smaller than the Chrysler ball joint especially when you consider the size of the Chrysler sleeve.

-Travis

The ball joint lowers the front 7/8" only, based on placing the bottom of the aftermarket sleeve in the locations of the stock GT sleeve. You can lessen or increase this a small amount by changing the location you weld the sleeve into the a-arm.

I have used these ball joints with stock GT springs, and my own aftermarket GT springs I used to sell (they were made by Benz Spring in WA, not the same as OGTS'). The eyelets did not hit the ball joint. With the fiberglass spring, and its' larger billet aluminum eyelets, they hit a LOT, and I had to relieve the aluminum to fit the Chrysler ball joint.

Bump steer will be worse (same as with any GT lowering method except notching the frame), but shock travel is not lessened, nor do the bump stops need to be cut when lowering via the ball-joint method, as the lower a-arm does not move from its stock location, only the spindle and upper a-arm move upward relative to the chassis.

When using an aftermarket 'sport' front spring, the bump stops are usually within 1/8" of striking the a-arm, which cause the 'bouncy' ride associated with a lowered GT as the bump stops bottom out over every bump in the road. Cutting the bump stops in half and using a high quality shock (with firmer valving to dampen a stiff spring's higher frequency), will make the car ride and handle a whole lot better.

Bob