I think the only good way to pull of a turbo in a GT, would be to create an intake plenum that goes over the valve cover. Get a flat top valve cover that has the cap at the front, like the Irmscher or 2.2/2.4 valve covers. There could be enough room for a wide, flat plenum. The throttle would be on the driver’s side.

 

Well?? Then where does the turbo go ?? There's just not enough room under the hood of a gt, and I don't think my current thought path will in any way limit me from hitting the hp goals I have in mind.
Could things be improved? Well certainly they can, but at what cost? I tend to look at everything in its entirely. Like when looking at the castings themselves I look to simplify the patterns and cores and keep their size manageable by a single person, and also to fit the equipment I have at hand.
Sure I could cast the intake and plenum as one piece, but splitting them like I'm doing greatly simplifies the the over all mold...

 

The turbo would still go on the passenger side. You just handle the intake on the driver’s side. This should avoid some heat soak and space issues. Lower IATs so the turbo benefits aren’t ruined by too much heat.

My idea would still work as a multiple piece intake. It would be like what Opel did with the 16 valve inline 4 that I believe is still used. They had the intake go over the top of the valve cover. I’ll draw up a rough sketch.

This is a rough sketch but I think it gets my idea across. It’s not to scale but this could be created in SolidWorks or Fusion360 in 3 pieces. This keeps the turbo and the exhaust contained as much as possible. With a ceramic coating on the exhaust and the intake runners, should keep the intake from getting heat soaked. You could even run a small intercooler in front of the radiator. So compressed air would go from the turbo to the nose of the GT for the intercooler and then back into the engine bay on the driver’s side to go into the intake. This intake design would also evenly distribute the compressed air. This is why the driver side part tapers. Again, it’s a rough sketch.

 

The turbo would still go on the passenger side. You just handle the intake on the driver’s side. This should avoid some heat soak and space issues. Lower IATs so the turbo benefits aren’t ruined by too much heat.

My idea would still work as a multiple piece intake. It would be like what Opel did with the 16 valve inline 4 that I believe is still used. They had the intake go over the top of the valve cover. I’ll draw up a rough sketch.

This is a rough sketch but I think it gets my idea across.
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I'll look at it, and think about it. But same thoughts here. If I can hit my hp goals with a simpler design then why go through the troubles...

 

Ok, I looked... just not enough room to do it that way. Atleast not with a decent sized turbo..
Here is the turbo sitting on the engine mount with my intake flipped over..

 

Are you sure you have enough room trying to put the turbo on top? And close the hood? A turbo might have to be placed down lower, past the engine mount. Not ideal, but I’m not convinced a turbo can be mounted in a GT. Might have to go with a procharger instead. If they can stuff an AC compressor in the engine bay, then a procharger can be made to fit.

What size is that turbo? Maybe a smaller one is needed?

 

Moving it up top, it fits... hood closes ... bit of room to spare... see previous pictures...

If I went to a smaller turbo it probably would not make the hp I'm looking for. A t25 is just a bit too small...
Mounting the turbo down low also causes issues with the oil drain back from the turbo.
Procharger??? Possible but expensive when compared to a turbo...

 

GT2554 fits. Though it’s tight.

Certainly enough power available to shred a stock clutch, stock 4-speed, Getrag 5-speed, torque tube, and rear differential. Also way more than enough power to overwhelm the stock suspension and brakes.

 

GT25 fits. Though it’s tight.

Ever measure the exhaust back pressure on this set up??? I bet it's almost double the boost pressure, and if it is... well short answer is " not good "
I've played with chrysler 2.2 turbos quite a bit and going from a t3 to a t4 made a huge difference.
It spooled up about the same but the big differences were I could run less fuel and alot more ignition timing, probably picking up 50 hp over all.
I'll be staying with the t3 atleast until I can get some baseline numbers on how it does, collect some data. then make a decision from there...

 

I needed to go back and see your HP target again. You want to hit 300 HP… that will require you to do a lot of supporting mods. You will need to strengthen the chassis and you’ll need a different transmission and rear axle. More or less nothing mechanical in a GT is made to handle that. So, you either need to lower your HP goals or you have a lot of work ahead of you. I don’t know if anyone has talked yet about this problem with you. I know you are new, so you wouldn’t have run into these convos yet. Remember, the GT was designed around an engine putting out roughly 100 HP. So tripling that amount will be problematic without a lot of upgrades.

 

That's going to be handled.. I have a t5 and a ford 8.8 posi to go under it. Will also be fitting a larger clutch and pressure plate. Rear trailing arms look like noodles too, so I'll do something with them when I swap rears. If need be I'll tie everything together with a cage, but would rather not... just have to see how things go once it's up and running...
Oh yea, something I learned along time ago.. that pedal to the right of the driver's foot well is more than just a on off switch.. lol.

 

Someone has a T5 adapter design for the CIH. Not sure if you’ve found that thread yet.

T5 adapter from HRW

I spoke with Ken just now and order 3 adapter plates for the 05-10 Mustang T5. They have like 2 week lead time. I will have 2 extras. PM me if you would like one. I can probably add more if need be. I got them for $240 each. Ken said somebody called about them yesterday. Maybe you're on...

www.opelgt.com

 

I've seen it, thanks for looking out for me it's appreciated..
I have one cad modeled, just need some garage time to finish changing the breakout board on the big mill... And a chunk of plate to machine it from. Going to be tied up fixing things on dad's 40 the next couple weekends though... still waiting on parts for the efi system so no big deal.

 

Been thinking ahead, going to be putting in hardened seats and guides into the X-19-A head and before I go punching holes in things...
Can you put a 1/2" guide insert into the head without breaking through into the cooling passages??
The casting seems pretty thin... and looking at this cut away, I have to wonder...

 

Can you put a 1/2" guide insert into the head without breaking through into the cooling passages??

Usually it’s not a problem, but occasionally I’ve had a few break thru due to core shift. Maybe one in a hundred heads. I’ve had the machinist re-install new guides on those heads with a special press-fit sealer and that worked great.

So all in all, I’ve only had one cylinder head not be useable from the valve guides breaking thru in 38 years of playing with Opels.

Since my personal preference is smaller stemmed valves these days, I also use smaller OD guides, and those have no issues. .437” as I recall.

 

Went and picked up the other engine today and while I was there went out for a ride in his gt. It's basically a 2.0 litre, flat top pistons, mild cam, 38 webber...
Pretty peppy from about 2500 up to 5,??? K couldn't really see the tach.. but im pretty impressed, very smooth power..
Crank trigger wheel and cps just showed up... but I just don't feel like going out in the garage to start fooling with it today.. Been a busy day already and tomorrow is another day..

 

Whose GT was it? Are they on this forum?

 

Got dad's car pretty much ready for the show. He's supposed to stop by tomorrow so I can buff out a couple places on the front fenders then off we go..
Figured I'd take the bit of free time I have today and get started on the front suspension rebuild since all the parts are finally here.
When I bought the car the front suspension was dismantled and inside the car, already primed.
I had the get the outer sleeves to the bushings out so I can press in the new ones. I used a die grinder to cut a slot almost all the way through the sleeve, then with just a couple brappp brapps of the air chisel they were out easy peasy..
I'm going to chuck everything into the blast cabinet and get them back to bare metal, then epoxy prime and paint...

 

Ok, upper bushings in (easy peasy) then the lower bushings.. those things are not user friendly!!
I braced the controll arm with some angle iron inside them, but they really fought me. Looking back it would have been much easier to just use the poly inserts.. pressed the lower ball joints in today and knocked the bushings out of the front spring. Talk about being past their expiration date..

You know what I just don't get though?? What are these bushings supposed to be doing?? They don't seem to serve a practical purpose..

 

Got everything epoxy primed, going to base clear it tomorrow if time allows... Hopefully I can get it done so it's good and hard when I get back from nationals..

 

Just finished detailing the 40.
Girls ready for the prom now. Wish us luck..

 

Just base coated and cleared the suspension parts.
Didn't go for shoe quality on this one, just making them look nice. Of course now I'm thinking I should have hit them with high build primer and sanded them..... oh well, atleast they'll be ready to be assembled when I get back from the show..

 

Had a great time at the show and the 40 did well. All that painting and buffing paid off

 

Apparently I got the bonus prize while at the show, no biggie but was a bit tired the past couple days so didn't get much done.
Today I headed out to the garage and decided to start on some bodywork. Oh the joy <sarcasm> of grinding into bodywork from the 90's.. fortunately the donor cars will provide most of all I need to do the job right..

 

Apparently I got the bonus prize while at the show, no biggie but was a bit tired the past couple days so didn't get much done.
Today I headed out to the garage and decided to start on some bodywork. Oh the joy <sarcasm> of grinding into bodywork from the 90's.. fortunately the donor cars will provide most of all I need to do the job right..
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Are you sure that isn’t a parts car? Lol That is pretty bad. It might be worst than my 1969 GT.

 

Not sure what pic pains me more ? LOL Darn Covid 💩

 

How was that for a photo dump... lol

 

Wow that does look like a lot of work. On my grandpa’s 1966 mg midget with a bug eye front end he had to remake the bottom 4inches of the car. It was rusted out bad.

 

If you want to play with old cars, you have to learn to deal with all the crap that comes with them.. Rust included...

 

I like the red! My grandpa’s friend has a 1966 mustang and he painted it almost an identical shape of red maybe a little dark though. It looks great, but it cost him $10,000

 

Busy morning, pulled the rear quarter from the donor car. Ran into some winged opposition in the process, you know the kind that gets really angry and swarms you with stingers out so had to evict them with a can of raid.. but I managed to get it off without being stung. It will fix about 80% of the rr quarter and get rid of the gallon of bondo that was there, but will still need to fabricate a couple of patches for the bottom 6".Now to drill out the spot welds and start fitting it to the 73...

 

Cutting, grinding, drilling spot welds...
NO FEAR!!

 

Those little bastards can ruin your whole day, quickly. I despise them!

 

One patch done, only 3,899 to go!!
This is the worst panel on the whole car, once I finish it the rest is easy...

 

Ok, that's enough for today.. still have to fabricate a little bit at the bottoms but not much.
Tomorrow is back to splitting the welds in the door jam. No joy there...