[soybean (R.I.P.)]

go to Guyopels photo album, he has a comparision of what the stock opel alternator and the gm 105 amp alternator look like together...the 105 is actually smaller then stock in size...

I asked Guyopel about the alternator and here is his reply.
Quote: The alt. # DLG 1345-6-7 from Autozone this is for a 91-95 Chevy pickup ( C/K bodystyle ) 350 cu.in. V/8 with A/C . You will need to use the Opel pulley ,the drive belt # is for a Dayco # 15355, the lower alt. bracket is for a Chevy. Pepboys # 42273, it is chrome and come with bolts . You will need to change to shorter bolts to mount the bracket to the Opel block . You will need to grind one slot in the bracket ( see photos ) and use spacers to move the alt. all the way to the frontof the Chevy bracket .You will use the Opel top bracket for adjustments . Hope this helps: End Quote

I looked at one at Advance Auto briefly the other day, and the adjusting bolt hole is clocked at the 2 oclock position and the bottom at 5 oclock. The present pulley is a serpentine. It was a little expensive, but definitely smaller. HTH, Jarrell

 

[maglinjosvinn]

i hate to dig up old posts...

but.

i blew out my alternator last night, and replaced it today. i WAS bypassing the lamp in the amp gauge, perfering to put a relay and a 12volt current directly to the white wire. this solultion worked all last year and most of this.

now i've put in my engine, the rebuilt one, and i've popped two alternators in 2 days. not good. lol.

so. i decided to go back to the whitewire connected to the trouble light's BLue w/ white wire. Works like a champ, till you rev it up, at which point the AMMETER reads out 30+ amps, (its topsiding the guage, so i know its burning it up).

before you say 'disconnect the ammeter', i need to know WHY its putting out THAT much juice. i thought the alternator would regulate, keeping the amps down until the system demanded them, at which point it would pile them on until everything got what it needed. Currently, i can only imagine that the amps going through the system are 1, burning out my ammeter guage, 2, burning out every other thing in the car.

Prior to this modification, lets say, the battery was run low, like i was listening to my stereo with the car off. the ammeter, when you started, would read 10 over 0, and slowly drop down as the battery charged, until it reached zero. Other things, like turning on the turnsignals, or the headlights, would make the ammeter guage visibly drop below zero, but it'd eventually balance back off. This of course was with my other 7127 alternator, with the white wire just being fed through a relay direct from the battery.


Oh. the lite in the dash does in fact go out, as soon as the car is running under its own power. its just putting out way too much juice.

 

[maglinjosvinn]

FINALLY!

battery was toast. was drawing max amps, and nevr charging. alternator was working like a dog to keep up. problem almost fixed. about to go spend more of my 'owe it back to dad' money.

 

[lewdawg]

O.K. I know this is an old thread but I have a question. I went to the parts house and looked up the 105 amp alternator for the early 90's truck and it has a 4 wire plug. I know the thread talked about the two wire plug on the 2167 alternator but I would like to run the 105 amp; not because of the extra amperage but for the size. So what's up with the plug? Any help would be greatly appreciated. :yup:

 

[soybean (R.I.P.)]

To be honest with you, I didn't examine the plug when I looked at the alternator. Pm Guyopel and ask him how he handled it, and ask if he will post his answer. I'm hopeful I can do the upgrade, by the end of the summer and inquiring minds would like to know. :yup: Jarrell

 

[GoldGT]

The Autozone DLG1345-6-7 alternator is a one wire 105 amp unit. I have been considering buying it, but have not as yet. I do have the 63 amp one that I got from Rock Auto, but I had to make a special bracket for the adjuster, as described in earlier posts in this thread. Both require the universal Chevy SB chrome bracket for the bottom pivot/mounting.

 

[namba209 (RIP)]

I just checked out the alternator plug on Willit? that also has a 4-pin plug, the harness I got with the 95 Camaro engine only has one wire going to the plug. It is in the center pin of the smaller holes. I hooked it up to the Blue/White wire going to the ammeter lite. Hopefully when I get the engine running, I'll be able to see if it is the correct hook-up. According to the Camaro/Firebird schematics, that one wire goes to the instrument panel, turns on the "check gages" lite and is the generator sensing wire. HTH.

 

[lewdawg]

Maybe ordering the plug for a 95 Camaro is the answer. I checked on the plug for the 92 Chevy truck CS105 alternator and though the alternator has 4 pins the connector only has three wires coming out of it. the question would still remain about the wiring with this plug. PM'd Guyopel but no response as of yet. I will also be checking with a very reputable alternator shop today. May be they can provide the answers.

 

[BQS4]

PM'd Guyopel but no response as of yet.

Lewddog;
guyopel (John) is in Europe for a 3 week vacation. I have seen him online, so he may have a laptop with him. But, he should be back stateside soon.
Gene

 

[oldopelguy]

sigh

There are 4-pins on that plug, though they all aren't required to be used and some regulators don't use all the functions anyway even if you did use them. The plug is available at any parts store these days, though usually it only comes with 3 wires. They are labeled most correctly by a letter designation, though generally the colors are pretty consistant.

If you look at the end of the plug it looks kind of like a capital "P." The wires should be as follows top to bottom in that configuration, but again labels are most correct:

-S- wire, this is the voltage sensing wire, and wherever you connect this one is where it will be sensing system voltage and adjusting to maintain it at the proper voltage. I'd recommend hooking it to the same terminal on the fuse box the resister wire for the coil is attached to, but that's just me. It should be a switched on source, on with the ignition. There are a few applications that don't use this one, but it is wired internally and can be added.

-F- wire, this wire is an output from the alternator to tell the computer how hard it is working to maintain voltage, because in some GM cars the computer would then run the motor up to fast idle to compensate. You won't be using this wire, and most voltage regulators inside the alternators don't have it wired internally either.

-L- wire, this is for the "idiot" light, and in a GT would be the one you would connect the blue and white wire to. In some applicatons this isn't used, because the computer would trip the light for you, but it's almost always connected internally if you wanted to run a light anyway.

-P- wire, this is a cool one. it is a pulsed square wave output from the alternator designed to be used as a tachometer signal on diesels. With some inginuity you could use it for the same, or you could maybe use it as a speed input to your cruise control, or maybe you just won't use it. Probably 75% or so I have come across have had it wired internally.

And lastly, there's the big lug on the back for the output wire, and you should probably run a ground wire too.

Remember, these are the new style modular plugs too, which means you can disassemble them and add/remove/move the pins around if the wires coming out don't meet your needs. If you only need the two wires, you can take the third pin right out of the plug like it never existed.

Hope that helps, have fun.

 

[guyopel]

Hi , I can give you the info. Your connector should have four letters on the connector "S" ( Heavy gauge wire )
"F" ( Not used ) "L" ( This is connected to the Opel dash warning light wire that is on the org. harness that goes to the old voltage regulator ) "P" is not used. The "S" wire is connected to the battery terminal on the Alt. If you have a connector with letters that are different E-mail me and I will try to help . You must use the Opel warning light wire ( This turns on the Alt. )With this Alt. you use Chevy. Alt. bracket ( Posted In earlier Photos )and spacers and you use the org. Opel top adjusting bracket ( with a spacer ) and the Org. Opel pulley and fan on the 105 Alt. I used a Dayco fan belt # 15355
Hope this helps .
John Lewis

 

[GoldGT]

Just looked up the one that I bought that went with the Delco 63 Amp Alt. that I bought from Rock Auto, their part number 215-35. The pigtail came from paceperformance.com, part number PW30706. I think this would also work with the 105 Amp. Single wire alt.

 

[guyopel]

I do not think this would work as the 65 amps alt. has a two wire flat blade connector .I used a G.M. connector that has three wires .The 105 amp. connector is also available from other auto parts stores and will have from four to three wires in them . HTH

 

[lewdawg]

I was ckecking out the CS105 at Checker Auto and they carried the alternator but had to order the plug. It would take a couple of days to come in. This is the way I'm going to go. Thanks John for your response :yup:

 

[BobCGT]

I have a 1973 GT that has had the alternator converted to the single wire Delco unit. Everything seems to have been functioning fine as far as charging goes.I have had the car about 2 months so I am picking away at whatever looks like it needs fixing up. So, with that in mind, I decided to add the 2 spade connector to the alternator since it wasnt previously added.As suggested in this thread, I connected the wires to the pigtail wires and plugged the connector into the alternator.The red indicator lamp on the ammeter was lit as soon as I plugged the connector to the 2 spade terminal and when I started the engine, the lamp went out as it should. What am I missing here?Thanks

 

[soybean (R.I.P.)]

Nothing would think. The red indicator is supposed to go out and stay out when the alternator is charging and the internal regulator is working. If the light does not go out,or comes on as you drive, it's not charging. My son found this out when the charge light stayed on, due to the wire breaking at the pigtail plug in. Don't ask me the rest of the conversation when I asked him if the light was on when he was driving. :banghead:
Jarrell

 

[BobCGT]

The red lamp on the ammeter is lit even before I key up the ignition,that is my concern
Bob

 

[soybean (R.I.P.)]

The red lamp on the ammeter is lit even before I key up the ignition,that is my concern
Bob

It stays on all the time? , not just when you turn the key on? I'm a little confused now as it seems you have it wired correctly.
Jarrell

 

[BobCGT]

Correct.The red lamp is powered all the time,except when the engine starts then it goes out as its supposed to.
Bob

 

[soybean (R.I.P.)]

Do you have it wired as in this post? http://www.opelgt.com/forums/6447-post5.html If so, then I am totally lost as to what to say. Jarrell