Lifter

Hydraulic lifters have 2 or more pieces (assembled, or in your case, disassembled). Solid lifters are 1-piece.

 

Can you tell if you have a 3 or 4 bearing head? IIRC all the 3 bearing cams where originally solid lift cams. Anonymous is correct as usual, I'm just questioning whether or not you have the correct cam with those lifters.

Harold

P.S. Quick check on the head is to count the AL plugs driven in between the rocker arms to plug where the oil galleries were drilled for the cam bearings.

 

It appears I have hydraulic lifters. One of them came apart while removing it. The reason I'm asking, I had that infamous "ticking" sound toward the top of my engine. My car sounded like a sewing machine on steroids!

After advice from a few people I pulled the lifters and inspected them. I found tar build up toward the bottom of each of the lifters, getting worse the further back I went. I took some steel wool and oil to the bottom of each and most of the carbon came off. I dipped the lifter in fresh oil and dropped it back in.

My problem now is how do I tighten the rocker arms and nuts? I've never done that before. I know if you over tighten them this causes problems. Keep in mind I'm a beginner level at engines.... so too much jargon gets me lost quickly....:banghead:

 

My problem now is how do I tighten the rocker arms and nuts? I've never done that before. I know if you over tighten them this causes problems. Keep in mind I'm a beginner level at engines.... so too much jargon gets me lost quickly....:banghead:

Hydraulic lifter adjustment can be done with the engine warm or cold. Each valve adjustment needs to be done with the piston involved at its TDC (top dead center) IN THE FIRING POSITION (INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES CLOSED).

With the piston at TDC, loosen the adjusting nuts until clearance exists between the rocker arm and the valve stem, and the rocker arm and the lifter.

Tighten the nut until the clearance is gone - then tighten the nut one more complete turn. Done.

 

Well, you know what kind of lifters you have. But, for future reference, the pinhole on the side of the lifter is another indication that you have hydraulic lifters. I'm pretty sure you can search the site for directions on how to adjust them. Just remember, if they don't work properly (as in fill with oil and hold oil pressure), you will not have good results in tying to set the nuts. Also, make sure your nuts are in good shape.
Jerry

 

Also, make sure your nuts are in good shape.
Jerry

If they don't have much resistance when tightening they may back out of adjustment. I just purchased a new set from OGTS, IIRC they were $3 each. Not too bad if it means not having to readjust them for a looong time.

Harold

 

Which rocker is exhaust and which is intake?

I am trying to tighten my rocker arms. Which rocker is the exhaust? Is it the first one closest to the timing chain?

I had someone try to tighten them previously and now the car won't start.

 

I am trying to tighten my rocker arms. Which rocker is the exhaust? Is it the first one closest to the timing chain?

I had someone try to tighten them previously and now the car won't start.

Not to discredit you at all, but for this procedure if you can't tell which rockers are which, or know how to distinguish them you should get some help setting the valve lash or do some reading on this. If you are setting out to just "tighten them" you are going to end up with a potentially bad situation as they have to be adjusted precisely and while they are in the right position.

Though to answer your question the valves will correspond with the exhaust/intake locations. So the first valve closest to the timing cover is an exhaust valve as you suggested.

 

Tightness

When I ordered valve stem seals from OGTS, they told me tighten only 3/4 turn. They said that the one full turn listed in the FSM was too tight.

Just an FYI.

 

Stupid Question

SORRY, for the stupid question. Dumb ole' girl just had to look at the exhaust manifold to tell that.....

Anyway, adjusted to the 0.012 on intake and 0.016 on exhaust and IT RUNS BETTER THAN EVER.

This website is the bomb----since the manual is totally wrong about the 29lbs etc.

Thanks

 

SORRY, for the stupid question. Dumb ole' girl just had to look at the exhaust manifold to tell that.....

Anyway, adjusted to the 0.012 on intake and 0.016 on exhaust and IT RUNS BETTER THAN EVER.

This website is the bomb----since the manual is totally wrong about the 29lbs etc.

Thanks

Wow! so there IS another Opel person in Orlando!

I thought I was the only one.

(If your doing that kind of stuff, you CAN't be a "Dumb ole' gal"!)

 

rocker arm studs coming out

This is my first time trying to adjust the valves (hydraulic) and the studs turned on the first cylinder, the adjusting nuts did not turn. Is there a trick to un-sticking nuts? I can easily remove the studs but the nut still remains stuck. I suspect someone did something to keep them from coming loose...and was too successful.

I do have another head with studs. Can I remove the studs from the other head with vice grips without ruining the studs or is it best to get new studs?

Thank you,
Jim

 

You can remove the studs by using two nuts that are locked together on the stud. You can also use a stud puller (looks like a socket and has cam drive insert) that may have less chance to damage stud. HTH
John