There is a small section in the back of it that covers 2.6 & 2.8 litre Ford 60 degree V6 though.

Have you seen www.gmpartsdirect.com GM 60 degree crate engines? They have a 3.4L replacement for rear wheel drive S-trucks 160 HP HT3.4 Part Number 12363230 GM List $2,049.11 Their Price $1,434.38 at my last look.

 

You're absolutely right Jim, I did read the whole book before I put it away, and it does cover all the V-6s of the Big 3 of that time. It just doesn't cover the engine I was interested in/have, although most of the info can be applied to what I have, except for the SFI, computer controlled ignition and all the sensors needed for the operation of the engine. I've looked at all the HiPo stuff available for the 60 degree GM V-6 on the net. But, right now it's called getting the thing all together and see if it will all stay together with stock original parts, kinda. Then if it stays together, and I get the monza done, I'll look at performance enhancements and other stuff to make it a complete NEW performance car. I've had folks, especially Margaret, tell me to get it done so they can see how it turns out. Her thing is, when I get it done, my back will go out on me and she'll HAVE to drive it.

Ron

 

youll have a hell of a time getting a strait 6 engine to fit because of the front suspension is so high

 

kwilford,
I have heard from many mechanics that the Ford Mustang II V6 was a short life engine. Prone to a variety of breakdowns. I have seen quite a few in the local junk yards and was told this during inquieries. It seems like a smaller V6 than the 2.8 (though I never measured) and wondered if it would have been the better transplant. Hmm, maybe alittle mor research is in order.

 

I'am the guy with the V6 opel its not that easy. If this is a never motor you need the computer and wiring , and the tranny is ok I did not put a 5 speed in mine because I wanted an automatic tight fit but it works. There is a lot of other Info you need to know if you want to call me thats fine. Dennis 215-679-9723 home after 4:30 EST And yes with the 3.4 V6 and the automatic and the 411 gears in my car it is very fast.

 

V-6 swap

You can go to www.trappeauto.com to see pics when my opel was being put together if that helps. Look under projects Dennis Weils opel, I have an automatic in mine 700R4

 

dennis can you look @ the link its not working (think you need a bit more on it )

 

dennis can you look @ the link its not working (think you need a bit more on it )

baz,

Just add .com to the end of the link. That will get you to his location. It is a sharp looking car!!

 

thanks rick
its very nice just wonder how hes going to get the tank over the 5 link subframe

 

A lot of weird stuff was done to the car. Very strange V6 with combined exhaust ports (uses only two exhaust tubes on each side) and gear driven cam, extremely long 4-speed manual (almost reaches the rear diff), shifter mounted on a piece of orange painted steel, 245/50/13 tires in the rear, full roll bar (badly mounted), gauges galore, switches I have no idea what they do, etc.

While I was taking it apart, I just kept saying "What was this guy thinking?"

That looks a lot like a Cologne six. I've done a bit of work on those engines, and would never for the life of me consider stuffing one in a sports car. They are large, heavy and completely untuneable. Aside from its principal home, the Granada, it also powered the Capri, Scorpio, Sierra XR range, etc, but IMHO it's best suited for agricultural machinery. That aside, it's a good, solid engine, and some of them have passed the million mile mark without major mechanical issues. Still, you've gotta wonder why someone would want it in a race car...

On a side note, most of the Colognes were mated to T-5's, aside from the earliest ones which got some funky 4-spd box.

~Yak

 

hi yak colognes untunable ????
i had 220 bhp on a rolling road from the 2.8 in my mustang II just by junking the emmision gear, a carb change and some work to the exhaust when i did a rebuild i changed the cam and ported the heads and manifolds and could not get a reading on the r/road as it only went to 260 bhp
any with the european heads were harder to tune for sure but they will go to 190 with a little work and mid 200's if you ahve the exhausts reworked and the splitters put in to make them 3 port heads
race wise they are very high torque when tuned so are very good to race
remember ford use to race a 2.6 RS capri in german touring carsand they were the dogs bo****ks for years ,even made bmw bring out the batmobil(3.0 cls) to try and beat it
only boxes ive seen on them are fords heavy casting 4 speed,the "N" type 5 speed,and mt75's ony ever heard of the t5 in cossys(4 cyilinder turbo) may be diff in norway but the rest of europe use those

 

Is this the same basic 2.8 engine that Ford continued on into the early (i.e. '83-'85) Ranger trucks here in the US? The 2.8 Capris here in the states could be made quite hot. I've always thought it'd be an interesting swap into an Opel since I noticed lots of parts swapped over to Opel engines and drivetrains (weird things like flywheel bolts, pilot bushings, etc.). Plus, you can get a getrag 265 (I think) bellhousing for a 5 speed swap. There are still some goodies being made for them, like Offie intakes and some torquey cams. The ones here all had solid lifters, and if well cared for, were good for MANY thousands of miles. Biggest problem was a reputation for the heads to crack.

Todd K.

 

....................

 

the mercury capri was the german capri so if its has a common engine then yes
we had different engines in britain for most of the run
we started with a "kent " engine (1.3 and 1.6 ) a 2.0 with the "pinto"and a 3.0 "essex" V6 engine
germany did them with there 1.5 / 1.7 /2.3 and 2.6 engines

last models were common and had 2.0 pinto / 2.3 V6 and 2.8 V6

ps im a ford man at heart as you may tell

only ever liked 4 GM cars
manta a
gt monza and
monte carlo

 

3.4L Chevy engine and a 2.8L T5 trans form and S10

I am in the process of (just starting) to do the 3.4L and the T5 swap.

Is there anyone who can give me insite as to what is needed to match the T5 with the 3.4L engine. The bell housing does not look like it matches up. Is there a kit or what needs to be done. I went this route since it looks like it has been done before by a few Opel gt projects already.

 

I sent you an e-mail on what I've done so far, and what's needed, check it out, and I hope you have as much fun as I did. Any questions, by all means ask, this is not a bolt in mod and there are things I screwed up on and can help you avoid.

 

i have been building my boss a 72 opel gt from scratch since august of 04. I have put the 3.4 v6 and a t5 from a 90 s10. I also have put ac in the car as well. basically you make everything you need. I took a stock opel crossmember, chopped it up into pieces, used rectangular piping, and made it fit the v6 using stock opel rubbers on top. i made custom adapter plates to bolt to the engine and to the mounts. the tranny mount was made using 4 bolt holes and rectangular piping as well. a custom drive shaft was made by ct driveshaft here in houston for 40 bucks. using all AN fittings i chopped the stock camero v6 fuel lines and splicted them into a steel braded hose which runs to a jaz fuel cell moddified to accept an autometer sending unit and to accept a custom filler neck that i fab out of stock opel gt fillerneck with some exhaust pipe. (from the outside it looks stock.) as for the hard part. getting a belt on the car with an ac compressor. to do this i took alot of time planning and it all starts with the camero coil mount. i chopped the powersteering/ coil mount down to the smallist i could yet i needed it strong enough to hold the coil packs into place, so basically there is nothing underneath the coils but room. the plate now bolts on with 2 bolts to the front of the engine on the driver side. hopefully i can get some pics of all this soon. i then found the smallest compressor i could it is the sanden 505. with a 6 groove belt setup put on the front and an optional Q plate in the rear it will work just fine. I located this on the top passenger side of the engine and made my own mounts for it as well. the reason for this to be on the passenger side is cause i knew i had to leave room for the exhaust work. and the headers to come out the front. I then realized that something had to be mounted backwards, there was too much motor and acc. that my boss wanted in this car for everyting to bolt to the engine. (the ac is what was too much.) so i mounted the altinator on the frame of the car facing the engine using a bracket that i made. and to keep the belt tight at all times, i mounted a tensioner from a 94 camero with a little mod to the altinator and its own braket. this ended up working great beleive it or not. for the wiring of the car, we wired it up from scratch with an EZwiring kit, then for the motor we called fuel injection specialist out of san antonio tx who made us a custom wiring harness for our application, eleminating emmisions crap. we then hooked up a handfull of wires and next thing you know turn key the engine runs. we had a custom radiator made accomp with a honda fan (92 honda civic condensor fan) this fits down into the nose cone with modified opel radiator mounts and a custom coresupport. as for the clutch, i put a slave cyl. from a 92 honda with an addapter plate and mounted it to the opel pedal (drill one hole into the pedal under the piviot point and put a pin in.) ran a hydralic line and bolted on a stock 90 s10 slave cylender. if you do this swap you will have to run a s10 flywheel and clutch. i purchased all autometer guages that fit into the opel dash and then wired them into the computer sys. and to sending units that came with the guages. bolted on some 1 inch spacer for the rear wheels and mounted some really good looking oem acura wheels from a 97 integra ls/special edition. next thing you know i am on the road. hopefully i can get some pics or something up but if you have any kind of questions send me an email. Dirtyrice411@hotmail.com

 

Two things concern me on what you've done. I don't know if an alternator will function turning the "wrong" direction, and with the alternator mounted fixed to the "frame rail" how do plan to compensate for engine torque, especially with the really soft GT rubber engine mounts? Secondly, how did you mod the fuel lines to AN fittings? A 37 degree flaring tool must be used on those fittings, if you used the regular automotive 45 degree flaring tool, there will be leaks. Just observations that I'm curious about.

 

the fuel lines were adapted to fit using an fitting by cutting the stock v6 fuel lines and then adding the an fitting to the rear of the hardline. I called a company called texas performance and they sorta did the dirty work and told me what i needed to get and how to put it all together to make it work. Today i figured out that to make the clutch work i had to use a camero flywheel and then modify the ballstud on the tranny's bell housing (the ball stud makes the fork arm rub against the pressure plate.) tomarrow i shall have the tranny back in for the 18th time and I will hopefully go for the first drive with the smooth feeling hydro clutch.

 

Sounds like an interesting project dirtyrice411, you get a chance to take any pictures yet?

 

Cool, I'd be extremely interested in how it runs. I just got some of the new style fuel line fittings with the hose connections on them. I'll use worm gear clamps on the hoses to compression fittings on the stainless lines. I'm frugal in that regard and keeping the engine stock looking in the process, almost. Glad you got the clutch fork figured out, there were just too many variables to make it not work initially. I'd be interested in seeing the hydraulic setup on the clutch pedal, and I'm sure others may be too. Sure hope you get it running real soon. I'm still working on mine and time is getting short.