Funny how things change..

A quick Update..

Atlas was stripped of the NOS parts as they were sold to a guy locally that is rebuilding his Manta to showroom.

Overheating issue solved we think.. the thermostat housing was leaking. But the motor still tough as nails.



It's still driving and running around and will be at the National Meet in Carlisle with its new Owner. His new owner is Matt Jones, a young mechanic friend of mine that helped with the Murphy project. I gave it to him as a gift, also then he has to store it ( The storage issue is something that has not changed ) and he can't sell it either Oh I get to still autocross it when I have time.

He is thinking of switching to a Manual transmission. I think getting the Automatic tuned better via computer would be the better option. We will see.

He plans on doing the interior, and wants to get it painted and fixed up.

I have used it as halloween decoration the last few years

 

Funny how things change..

He is thinking of switching to a Manual transmission. I think getting the Automatic tuned better via computer would be the better option. We will see...

Yep, I would have to agree.

 

Well yes moving to a place with a 6 car garage and a small house attached would be preferred.. but my wife would have to agree.. I have been considering going out the country and buying an abandoned garage. One of those old 2 pump a couple of garage bays, sink and small office.. I could then make it the EZ2Wire office and write it all off..

 

@Harold, at least my driveway is paved.....not gravel and dirt:yup:

 

Gravel is preferable, at least in my eyes, to high maintenance black top. Saving for concrete or nothing. Last estimate was almost $20K. :sigh:

Harold

P.S. And if you're referring to my dirt floors, there is hardwood under there SOMEWHERE.

 

Thanks everyone, and I do understand a lot of what you all say.

The Bitter originally left due to space, new car (My first GTO) and it was no longer a reliable daily driver and I needed the cash.. Now it no longer has to be a daily driver, and although I could use the cash.. I hate to see it die. But it still brings up a space issue.

Also I am a bit more adept at some things than I was a decade ago and have a lift and more tools to work with.

That said, currently its leaning towards the Manta will be stripped of its NOS parts, and have them replaced with whats on Bens car, which are nice.. just not NOS. Ben's Manta will get re-restored by my son in the future.

I will get the heater / Defrost and such working on the Manta, fix the fan issue ( Currently its on-off manually), and it will be Davids car. Because as everyone noted.. only I and David would probably appreciate it. Then the space issue may not be as big of one.

The REAL issue will be when the Bitter gets home. The Kadett will fit in the storage building.. but will the Bitter fit in my garage ? If memory serves it does, but its REAL tight. I think I had it in the garage during hurricane Isabel. But it was catty-cornered into there.

Anyway.. this was more to see what people thought than a concerted effort to sell it.

 

Charles;
Wouldn't it be simpler to just buy a house in the country with a bigger driveway? I can park about 10 cars in my driveway, easy

 

When I saw your post of wanting to sell this I had to read it twice, not believing it the first time. Although I appreciate the work that has gone into the project by everyone involved, I'm not sure you will find someone else that would appreciate the car itself as much as you do Charles.

 

At this point, I would doubt that spending the money on the carpet is going to increase the value of even the cost of the carpet. I would look at the reasons why you let the Bitter go over the idea of letting this Manta go, as it was your vision to do this build, where maybe the Bitter was a headache you wanted rid of, maybe it was you needed money pretty bad. The manta is so specialized now and narrow to the point of what you created, that it will be a tough sell, or a give away. I would buy it, but you wouldn't like my number and I don't have cash in hand to make the offer anyways.

 

Charles,
Since the hard mechanical work is already done, why not go ahead and wrap up the easier tasks like carpet? I'm sure it would greatly help the appearance and even provide a quieter ride. Best of luck, including the Bitter project.

 

Hmmm. Anyone willing to take a SWAG at it..?

 

OK.. space is limited, my son David is debating whether he wants it.

I have my Bitter coming home.. Something has to give.

As everyone can see.. Mechanically she is done.. Wiring is done. Over 2,000 miles on the drivetrain at this point and about 300 since the thermostat was replaced. No overheating issues since and it runs great. Even took it to autocross one more time.. (yea.. I still suck). OBD2 reported a perfect 195 degrees the whole day.

Needs glass pulled out (has new rubber) and the body gone over for paint.

I will probably swap all the emblems and lights over to Ben's Manta as we plan on restoring that one later.

Probably wouldnt hurt to get vertical bars on the roll bar to stiffen it up.

Body has been gone over for rust.. so its in decent shape there.

In no rush to sell it.. but if someone is interested make me an offer. I probably will keep it stored over the Winter and in May bring it to Carlilse. Then it will probably be time to really get into it and sell it.

Honestly not sure its "Value", I have well over $9,000 in it.. but mechanical doesn't sell the car or raise its value if the body needs a paint job.. But if you leave it like it is.. and go for the current theme well thats another story.

That said, it drives and stops like a new car.. and the 175 HP motor is smooth, Gas Mileage is in the mid 20s. Handles great.. !

Right now the value for me would be getting storage back. Who knows, its best value maybe as Davids first car. From a sentimental point of view at least.

What do you guys think the true "value" of it is.. To be honest from a $$$ its probably a crap shoot.

Review:

• Body solid ( Can replace trunk if owner does not like spoiler )
• 2004 Chevy Colorado 2.8L - 175 HP
• 4 Speed Automatic
• New Front Vented 4 piston Disc Brakes
• New Rear Disc Brakes
• New Wiring harness front to rear
• New Fuel lines
• New Suspension ( all new bushings, shocks, ball joints, tie rods, etc.. )
• New AL Radiator
• Relined gas tank
• New Windshield rubber
• Good Used Side window gaskets
• Good Used B Pillar Rubber
• Dash is a early Manta dash ( only center vents ) NO CRACKS
• NOS lenses and emblems ( Possible deduct for swapping back to good used )
• Floor boards seal and covered in Dynmat w/ temporary carpet (needs new carpet)
• All underhood areas repaired and painted in durable truck bed Liner

Needs :

• Exterior Body gone over and new paint job ( If the flat black doesnt work for you ) as all major rust areas repaired, just not finished off.
• Custom center console for shifter made
• Carpet & Headliner
• Door and kick panel covers in good shape
• Either support or removal of roll bar
• Heater fan and heater core wired and plumbed.

 

Ain't 'puter controlled cars cool.
My 1994 EEC IV conversion also has an overheat function.
It adds more fuel to cool the combustion temperatures down..automatically .

 

Ain't 'puter controlled cars cool.

Yep, when they work correctly but isn't that the case with ALL things?

Harold

 

Well another roadtrip.. but this time did not go as well.. THANK GOD I left early so I would have sunlight in case something happened.

BUT the motor proved to be damn near bullet proof..

Lets set the scene..

In Philly in construction traffic, Jersey walls both sides.

Stop and go for over 5 miles, and at least 45 min in traffic..

Car starts getting warm (It has been running REALLY cold up till now).

Well found a design flaw and a problem.

To save room to get the lower rad hose to fit, the bulbous end of the water neck was cut off, add to that the radiator hose wasn't on super tight because apparently the hose clamp was a tad cross threaded.

So.... Once the car got to full pressure.. POP.. off went the lower radiator hose.

With no place to pull over, I saw in a 1/2 mile there was an exit. crossed fingers I could get to there.. (BTW at this point I think a lose radiator cap was the issue.. and not that I had lost ALL the coolant).

I get off interstate, and no gas station to be found.. But do find a what looked to be a Fire Dept building.. (Thought it was a fire house.. proved to be a Fire Dept version of a VFW), anyway at least it had light and was relatively safe.

So basically I drove it about 5-10 minutes at least 2 miles in stop and go traffic with NO COOLANT.

After I open the hood I see the issue and start figuring I was going to be get a tow truck to Richmond.. But first have to see if I can get it back and running. As I had a cooler full of ice water, and tools to fix the problem.

So fix the hose clamp, and replace the hose.. and fill the system.. and she starts.. and acts like nothing ever happened. Get home with no further issues.

NEXT MORNING.. I start her up.. and drive over to my brother-in-laws house (3 miles )

Help him work on his project, and then have to go get gas.. Drive over get the gas and back.. (2 miles)..

While I am waiting on him to get back with parts. I figure as good a time as any to replace the water neck so this never happens again.. Open the hood.. The lower radiator hose had popped off sometime after I got gas when I returned home.. I had been driving for I have no idea how long ( at least 5 miles - Have a feeling hose popped off during the night) with no water AGAIN. Motor never once made noise or acted funny..

Well replaced the water neck, and a new hose clamp.. so far no issues.

That motor is TOUGH.. and there is something to be said for an all AL block and head, the cooling affect of missing my the lower valance, and Royal Purple Synthetic Oil..

I hope no permanent damage was done.. but so far I have driven it about 10 more miles and I don't seem to be losing coolant, nor is there oil or water where it shouldn't be. and now motor gets up to proper operating temperature, and seems to run even better.

So long story short.. a bit over 1200 miles in 2 weeks.. ran without water TWICE.. and still runs great. I think I would call this build a success.

 

Maybe yes and maybe no..

All depends, I need to get to Gordos and pick up the remains of Red Baron the 1st.

That said, checking on the truck and trailer to see if they are up for the trip. Also maybe able to bring it and truck and trailer.. all depends.

 

Bringing it to Octopelfest?

 

Well put over 500 of highway miles on Atlas..

When I started this project I wanted an Opel that would behave much like my GTO, and be "point and shoot" in traffic. I.E. If I want to be 2 lanes over.. and the highway is crowded.. if I can see a hole in the traffic, I can be 100% comfortable I can make it.

Well I can now say with 100% certainty I got what I was shooting for.

Cruises at about 2800 RPM at 80 MPH, and just purrs. While getting 27-30 MPG.

Mind you I drove it to Charlotte on these:

Not the most fuel efficent tire.. so I think dropping back to 195/60r15 with a harder compound would really boost the MPG a bit.

No vibrations, no funny noises, I had only one major PIA issue.

The foot pedal is Corvette, and the engine/ECU is Chevy Colorado. MOST of the time they behave. But in the morning ( ESPECIALLY If you touch the foot pedal at anytime the engine is off and the keys are in the car and its in the on position ). The ECU will see the pedal isn't quite right and turn it off.. Thus you have to reset the computer. Not a huge issue, as I have a sending unit for the OBD2 in the car and can reset the ECU whenever I want. Its just annoying more than anything else.

Long story short..

2 trips to Autocross - Didn't break
1 trip to dragstrip - Didn't break
500-600 mile trip on the interstate at full highway speeds.. - Didn't break

Yea.. still have lots of finishing touches, and possibly time to think about a nice carpet, fix up the interior and maybe even a real paint job..

Mechanically shes 100% done

Again thanks Juan and everyone else that helped get it out of purgatory and back on the road.

 

I have used all of these for data logging along with the Tech 2 (not shown).
The SF is for burning and as a pass-through for live-link Gen-11 software..
LiveLink

I guess that my point is...there's all sorts of ways to hack into the PCM.
There's also different levels
Dealer
Tuner
Engineering
And I think theirs one more level that I've never seen.

 

Diablo

Thats what cracked and wiped my ECM of VATS and such..

The guy I am going to go too does a lot of GM LS and LT work, with the 4L60E so he should be able to get me straight.

 

If you have the factory PCM, the transmission shift point are controlled by a MAP system to learn car demands and it will set a program that gives the best performance and fuel eco. and emissions. Example : when the transmission has to be rebuilt and after it is reinstalled you reset the transmission shift adapts to the center of the MAP program until it relearns the shift modes or you will have hard or skipped shifts.
So if you have a PCM that has been re-flashed the program may not be correct or all parts written.
The sputter between shifts sounds like the fuel injector shut-off for the RPM exceeded limits to protect the engine and drivetrain this is written into the GM PCMs.
It look like you need to control your transmission either a trans control unit or have your PCM re-flashed for transmission control.
Someone with a Tech-2 could scan and control your transmission to see what is going on.
I tried to keep this simple to keep it on track with out to much detail.
HTH
John

 

Thanks for the input.. thats the plan.. The trick is to get into the programming of this Computer. It has been cracked already, so flashing should be easy.. if we can get somethign that can get down into the weed and read the transmission. Which we think we will be able to do.

 

OK, here's a solution for you. Purchase a transmission controller from RPM or whomever makes them. Yeah, they're expensive but maybe find a used one on Racing Junk or whatever.

Another option is to put in a 700r4 and start fooling around with the weights and springs in the governor. That would be something I would not recommend since you already have the 4l60 but you can tune a transmission that way. I was able to get the 700r4 in my RX7 "close enough" that way.

 

The tire size is a non-issue unless you got abs or some kind of stability control.
Big woop the speedo is off by a few mph.

 

Doesnt the tire size affect the final gear ratio of the rear..?

Here is something for you to stick into some charts for me

Just checked Stock tire for the Colorado was a 205/75R15 vs a 205/50r15 I have on it now a difference of 14%. not sure how much that would equate to a gear ratio difference.

Colorado : 4L60E (Apparently all the same) - 3.06 1.63 1.00 0.70 : Rear end is 3.42

Manta : Rear end is 3.44

So I should be spinning 14.8% slower or 17.3% faster depending on the calculation and I don't remember which is which.

http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

Calculator saying I need to have the Manta have a 2.91 rare to maintain the ratio of the Colorado..

http://tire-size-conversion.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

But it in the calculator the other way and I THINK its telling me I have a 4.02 equivalent rear end.. Which would seem about right with me spinning tires and over-revving into 3rd gear.

 

Performance numbers that you posted.

A bunch of hype. An apples to oranges comparison. Those quick cars back in the day were not that quick when actually seeing them at a strip. Once again , tires, track, driver, mods etc.

That is a thumbnail of performance but what matters is what you do with your car to improve times, through trial and error, whether it be on the strip or autocross or whatever.

Jim.

 

Decent numbers. A couple of things here tho. 1.80 is a respectable 60' time. To get to the 1.5's Wrench tongue in cheek refers to, you would need wrinkle walls and a 200 shot and the fronts will be off of the ground.

1/4 speed is more indicative of horsepower than the ET. Lots of variables there but generally true I think.

As in all racing, weight is your enemy, especially in the wrong places. Hint. front tire weight, battery location, dieting, etc. Drag mode, obviously.

Transmision tuning is a bitch. But, the results can be amazing.

Density altitude also plays a big part. Better air, better times. In other words don't worry to much about numbers, they change.

To give you an idea, last time out in my RX7 I had a 1.79 60'.. 12.019 @ 115. It's been in the 11's and I've had the 60' down to 1.75. It all depends on the air, the track, and if the driver has a wee bit of a hangover.

 

I recall from my high school years, that VW Beetles were quick off the line and would beat many of the muscle cars of the era for the first 60 feet or so.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Road racing

If your going to do that I'll lend you some springs.

 

If your going to do that I'll lend you some springs.

Thanks.. that would help the budget considerations..

 

Transmission tuning can be one of the most DIFFICULT parts of tuning!
Plenty of trial and error with road test after road tests.
Be sure to get tons of datalogs and take huge amounts of notes.

 

Normally in the manta as the lower control arm is traveling so is the sway bar. Unfortunately, the way the sway bar twists forces the front of the lower control arm to move more than the back as everything swings through its travel. The twist in the lower control arm works with the compliant rubber bushings everywhere in the front suspension but as soon as you start firming the bushings up you start binding them up.

Locating the end of the lower control arm with a rod like Gary has allows the front sway bar twist to be decoupled from the arm, so the bushings can be firmed up for a more precise suspension that is also less binding. Bonus for a lowered car in that the sway bar can actually be mounted lower with respect to the cross member (for more exhaust, oil pan, and starter clearance) and a small rod end link will let it be positioned parallel to the ground still.

 

Look around on this site RB posted some very nice strut/radias arms for the manta.

 

LOL.. Got me didnt know about those.. Just never imagined a Opel Manta front suspension without the swaybar.

I thought you meant this :

My bad..

Oh and in typical form..

on the slips is reaction time added to the total time or are the times based on what you tripped

Can I ever get the full answer out of you