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  • The L-Jet is a $500-$700 investment in better reliability, throttle response, and MPG over a 38DGAS and can easily be done by the AVERAGE Opel owner. On a street 2.0L Build, its a good and SIMPLE option and can fit in a average Opel owners budget.
  • The Custom EFI route, is a $2000+ investment in squeezing a few more HP, out of a custom motor build with a custom cam, and can NOT be done by the average Opel owner. and is the furthest thing from a simple option, but hey if you already have $5000+ in a motor whats an extra $2000+ right..?
  • Trying to compare the two is ridiculous, and absurd. One is simply an upgrade to the options mix of carbs, the other is for those with too much money and time on thier hands
There is yet another alternative. Lets say you have the OEM Opel EFI system already, but the computer is bad (as many of them die eventually I've found over the years).

Keep the stock intake, injectors, pump and upgrade only to something like a Megasquirt. It gives the torque curve that the stock EFI intake is known for, and you lose the restrictive air flow meter. So if you have a higher flowing head and camshaft, you can tune it to maintain proper air fuel ratios. And there's a lot less than $2k invested in the system. You could do it for about $450 if you build the ECU yourself, or around $800 if you buy everything pre-made.
 
There is yet another alternative. Lets say you have the OEM Opel EFI system already, but the computer is bad (as many of them die eventually I've found over the years).

Keep the stock intake, injectors, pump and upgrade only to something like a Megasquirt. It gives the torque curve that the stock EFI intake is known for, and you lose the restrictive air flow meter. So if you have a higher flowing head and camshaft, you can tune it to maintain proper air fule ratios. And there's a lot less than $2k invested in the system. You could do it for about $450 if you build the ECU yourself, or around $800 if you buy everything pre-made.
This does sound like a middle option that's for sure.

But what do you replace the AFM with.? a MAP off another car or something..?

What throttle body would be recommended.. ?

How do you wire in the Megasquirt..?

I might be willing to try this option, if budget allows on Steves car..
 
This does sound like a middle option that's for sure.

But what do you replace the AFM with.? a MAP off another car or something..?

What throttle body would be recommended.. ?

How do you wire in the Megasquirt..?

I might be willing to try this option, if budget allows on Steves car..
You can get the MAP with the Megasquirt kit. I think it's about $20 new. Just a GM unit. Or go to a junkyard.

For the throttle body, either adapt a TPS onto the existing throttle body, or upgrade to the 60 mm Nissan TB (easy swap, been talked about a lot here). http://www.opelgt.com/forums/fuel-injection-mods/7381-throttle-body-aftermarket-ecu.html

As far as the wiring, it's essentially the same as the OEM wiring. Same basic sensor inputs, plus the MAP, with the option for O2 sensor. In fact, the Megasquirt...although initially calibrated for off-the-shelf GM/Ford stuff typically, can be recalibrated to use the OEM Bosch sensors.
 
Discussion starter · #104 ·
Be careful with #1 - Pyscopotato has a 2.0L HC with a 1.5L and big valves.. has to run 102 Octane fuel.. to keep it from pinging. That said he is running a 38DGAS, and not sure its setup 100% properly. I havent had time to dial in his carb. Summer project is to try the LU system on his car motor.

Think the 2.2 with 1.9L head would work with the Opel/BMW/VW Bosch LU system quite nicely.
I am planning on being careful but who knows. ~L
My plan on the 1.5 head build is to be around 10.0:1 ratio. My math, so far, supports that with the high side being 10.2:1 and the low side being

Playing with V8s it's been my experience that 92 octane is usable as high as 10.5:1 with the correct timing curves. I don't want to deal with those tightly oriented timing curves.

Also, the 1.5 head build won't be a daily driver. I have other options for that.
 
what Bob suggests is what im doing

Im using a throttle body from a 2.4 Frontera and it just bolts straight on to my 2.2 manifold. Crank wheel ,pick up and fuel rail with injectors from a 2.4 frontera

Im going megasquirt and these can now be picked up used, as i did. MS2 wasted spark.
The Map sensor is part of the MS2

The only non Opel parts are the MS and the wide band sensor and monitor.

frontera 2.4 parts are practically at giveaway prices in the UK as no one wants them trawl ebay.uk or the frontera forum
 
There is yet another alternative. Lets say you have the OEM Opel EFI system already, but the computer is bad (as many of them die eventually I've found over the years).

Keep the stock intake, injectors, pump and upgrade only to something like a Megasquirt. It gives the torque curve that the stock EFI intake is known for, and you lose the restrictive air flow meter. So if you have a higher flowing head and camshaft, you can tune it to maintain proper air fuel ratios. And there's a lot less than $2k invested in the system. You could do it for about $450 if you build the ECU yourself, or around $800 if you buy everything pre-made.
I was wondering when someone would suggest using the stock basics and just add some better electronics

I've never gotten around to messing about with my FI project but Dan pointed me in various directions ages ago and I was toying with the idea of using this one

http://socalsaab.com/suites/suites.htm

as SAAB parts are dirt cheap if I take a trip across the border to Sweden, complete ECU's with wiring harnesses for 100-150 dollars

Lately I've been thinking of moving my FI project to the TR6, either way I'll be using a stock ECU

And of course, Juan had his project here a while back using a VW TB on a stock 1.9 manifold ......

It doesn't *have* to be complicated and expensive
 
This does sound like a middle option that's for sure.

But what do you replace the AFM with.? a MAP off another car or something..?

What throttle body would be recommended.. ?

How do you wire in the Megasquirt..?

I might be willing to try this option, if budget allows on Steves car..
Charles,
Go back to the DIY autotune site that I gave you the link to that was "not for dummies" and just start digging around, there is tons of info and all of your questions will be answered. The MAP is built right onto the Megasquirt board. My throttle body is off of the 3.0 manifold that I bought and the TPS is off of a 2.4 intake that I got from Bob, which I never used, but Bob's suggestion is way more available. The best way to wire the Megasquirt in is by using the relay board that you buy from DIY Autotune. It makes it a real no brainer since it has all of the inputs labeled as well as where you connect all the injectors and the fuel pump too. It is EASY. The difficult part is the software and the tuning. If you want to you don't even have to use an oxygen sensor, Megasquirt can run without one.
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #109 ·
Mechanical relays on a fuel injector?

No friggin way!
 
Discussion starter · #110 · (Edited)
Nevermind. I had a frain bart.
 
Discussion starter · #111 ·
So for dummies. Can anyone help with these pictures?

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Because this thread is for dummies and all...
 

Attachments

Might want to check out this post:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/factory-fuel-injection/42962-2-0l-le-injection.html?daysprune=365

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Got me.. This one I haven't seen or I don't think I have. Maybe the wires are bundled together..? Is there a plug under that..?

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Water, they are to warm up the TB like a water choke.. not all have them. Think its a early L-Jet thing.

The smaller the top goes to the valve cover. Here is a picture of my setup.. may help a bit more.


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1 - Auxilary air bypass hose - Goes to a fitting on the hose connecting the Throttle to the AFM

2 - Radiator hose - UPPER

3 - Radiator Hose - To Water Pump

4 - Radiator Hose - To Radiator

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The Throttle body. See above

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Automatic..?

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Upper Black - Auxilary Air Valve ( Think Choke )

Top brown - Cold Start Valve Temp senor (When starting warm Cold Start injector is OFF, Cold its ON) On my install I cheated.

I removed this and replaced it with a switch so I control the cold start valve. That way I could use this port for my heater core connection.

Lower White one - EFI Temp sensor.. (What it sounds like)

Looks like you have the European 2.0 LE injection as opposed to the 75' EFI. This is the one you can use the BMW AFM, BMW computer and the VW Injectors on.. as I did in the Kadett.

READ THIS POST -- >> http://www.opelgt.com/forums/fuel-i...jection-mods/47130-upgraded-bosch-injection-your-opel-all-one-concise-post.html
 
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Water, they are to warm up the TB like a water choke.. not all have them. Think its a early L-Jet thing.
The coolant hoses to the TB is for icing.
A bunch of OEM'S used this method.
The later model TBW'S(throttle-by-wire) will rapidly open and close the throttle to break loose the ice.
 
"Robert Bosch fuel injection" is a good over view.
LE-tronic was only used in Europe...no feed-back control.
LU was the system that the "states" got.
Either way google can get you must of the manual and wiring diagrams.
 
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