i dought this is the problem, but my GT did the same thing after i changed the motor. i had the 2 wires that plug into the solenoid switched around backwards, it tried to start as soon as the key was turned on. maybe this will fix it.....?

 

Me thinks Jared is right. There are two terminals on the starter solenoid.

The outboard solenoid terminal (blade is horizontal) has a 14 gauge black wire with the red stripe, which is from the ignition switch "start" contact. When energized, it actuates the solenoid, which is itself just a big, magnetically powered switch. The solenoid just sends power from the battery cable to the starter.

The big post on the middle (the the battery cable is connected to) has a thicker (10 gauge) wire that is red with a white stripe, and should have a short (6 inch or so) lead of thinner wire, usually wrapped in a cloth sheath. This is the fusible link, and is a type of fuse. This wire feeds the ENTIRE fuse box.

The inboard solenoid terminal (blade is vertical) is only energized when the solenoid is actuated (as in the engine is cranking), and supplies power to the coil "+" terminal. This is meant to bypass the resister wire while the engine is cranking over (thereby supplying full voltage to the coil, less the draw-down caused by the starter). The resister wire, in turn, is the other (clear insulation) wire connected from the "run" contact of the ignition switch to the "+" coil terminal. This is equivalent to a ballast resister, reducing the voltage to the coil when the engine is running, thereby reducing the "arcing" across the ignition points. This wire, by the way, can be bypassed from the ignition switch if you convert to a breaker-less ignition (such as a Pertronix).

So, if you have the solenoid wires transposed, when you turn the ignition "on", it will supply (resistered) power to the "+" side of the coil, which will then travel down the "crank bypass" wire, and ENERGIZE the solenoid.

The only wire you should be changing when installing a relay in the start circuit is the black/red stripe wire. The relay should be powered by a fused supply (either from the "Big Post" or from the fuse box), the black/red stripe actuates the relay, and the "switched" output from the relay should then be connected to the horizontal outboard solenoid terminal.

HTH

 

Hi and thanks for your replies.

I checked to make sure I am using the correct wire to trip the relay and indeed I am. When I put a meter on the black/red wire I read 12 volts, however if I return this wire to the post on the starter solenoid and check it with a meter I read 0 volts. I'm not sure if the load of the solenoid is enough to be a voltage drop but not enough for the relay, resulting in the car trying to start in the "ON" position. Is the black/red wire supposed to have any votage on it? Does any one have an suggestions????

Thanks for your help

Tom

 

Tom,
If you only hook up the ground and black/red to the relay, does the coil pull in right away or only when you turn the key?

Also double check to see if you are using the correct relay terminals.

"C" (common) and the N.O. (Normally Open - no continuity between C & N.O. when the relay coil has no power) terminals are the ones you need to use.

In DDoyle's diagram http://opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1435&highlight=ignition+relay

30 = relay coil "+"
87 = relay coil "-"
85 = N.O.
86 = Common