Sorry guys, didn't think it was a big deal. Old news to me. It was Otto's idea to post it as a tip.

Bob

 

By drilling these holes, will the engine temp also go down? My rally engine is too hot now and I tried everything before I see this trix. I want to try that.

 

I have found that by simply adding a couple holes to the stock head gasket, I can lower the exhaust temps of #2 and #3 by about 150 degrees. I do this to all my Opel head gaskets, matter-of-factly.

I cut two 3/8" holes at this area only. To locate these holes, lay the gasket on the head, and tap the gasket with a soft hammer right at the triangular-shaped water passage holes on either side of the head bolt hole beneath the center exhaust ports. Then in the center of these indentations you just made in the gasket, punch out the aforementioned 3/8" holes. I use a gasket punch. Otto

Otto, I have a question. I pulled the cylinder head and was going to try what you had posted for improved coolant flow. In the pictures I have enclosed there are several coolant passages that are compressed. Would it be of any benefit to open those up as well? The block has the openings.Thank you, Jarrell

 

Head gasket coolant holes . . .

Quote:
. . .

Otto, I have a question. I pulled the cylinder head and was going to try what you had posted for improved coolant flow. In the pictures I have enclosed there are several coolant passages that are compressed. Would it be of any benefit to open those up as well? The block has the openings.Thank you, Jarrell

Jarrell,
While it wouldn't hurt, the extra effort wouldn't improve things much beyond the two recommended holes, IMO, at least not in relation to the extra work involved. More chances for something to go "not quite right" with cutting the additional holes, too!

The biggest "hot spot" in the CIH head is, of course, the cylinders 2 and 3 junction because you have two exhaust valves right next to each other. Lowering exhaust gas temperature in this area results in the best cylinder-to-cylinder head temperature stabilization, which is the specific purpose of the extra coolant holes here, adjacent to #2 and #3 exhaust valves.

Of all the cracked heads I've seen, the great majority were in the #3 combustion chamber, typically cracked at the narrowest junction of the intake and exhaust valve seats.

 

Would it be of any benefit to open those up as well? The block has the openings.Thank you, Jarrell

This is common on the aftermarket head gaskets out of Europe. Here's one from Risse. I can't comment on it's effectiveness however.

-Travis

 

Man it would be almost worth the effort to pull the head to do this even though I only have 100 miles on the engine . I wish I knew that one earlier too.

I do have a question though about this. Do the 2 liter head gaskets that OGTS sells have more holes open than the stock 1.9 gaskets?

 

Metering

The extra holes would need to be of the correct size to carefully meter the water flow up from the block and through the head passages. Too much water directed up through the front of the head could shut off and "stagnate" the water in the rear of the head - that is why the stock set up has the large water hole at the rear - to promote water flow forward through the head.

That being said, opening up the water flow up past the spark plugs will help cool them and also allow any air/steam that is trapped below the gasket to be purged out of the system - looks like we will have to unlimber the 6mm and 8mm wad punches ........

The Risse gasket pic uploaded by Travis (thanks!) will give a guide to where to punch the holes - I think they know a bit about hi-perf CIH Opel motors ....

 

Calvin in a word the answer to whether the OGTS head gaskets have these holes the answer is no if you look back in the 2.0 thread I believe I showed them all and none had holes like Otto mentions. Sorry. That is a very good point Travis but I have an early and late model risse and they do not have the holes you mentioned. they are exatly like a felpro.

 

That is a very good point Travis but I have an early and late model risse and they do not have the holes you mentioned. they are exatly like a felpro.

Risse also sells them without the extra holes. It all depends on what you order...

-Travis

 

I belive when I put it back together, I will follow the pattern of the Risse gasket that Travis posted. I'm going to practice on the old gasket first though. I won't know the results for about a month until I get everything back on the car. I had been having a problem with overheating even though the engine was flushed. I think I am going to put a petcock on the thermostat housing like RallyeBob suggested to help bleed air out of the system as well. What the heck, can't hurt. Jarrell

 

I finished up cleaning up the head to put it all back together and this is what I found out. The Risse gasket has holes that wouldn't be needed. In the attached thumbnails, I have the holes that are existing on the felpro gasket. The old gasket on the head and the only places that new ones could be added. That is the question again? Would it be of any help or leave it stock, or like GtJim and RallyeBob suggested just the 2 holes between #2 and #3 exhaust valves. Thank you, Jarrell

 

I strongly suggest you only punch holes under the center exhaust ports as previously recommended. The greatest reason is because opening *all* the holes will mess up the flow characteristics of the coolant via turbulence. It is designed to flow from the front of the block to the rear of the block, drawing the heat away from the cylinders. Then it comes up through the rear of the head, pulling heat from the ports and combustion chambers before leaving the head via the thermostat housing. If you disrupt this pattern drastically, it can cause overheating problems, especially at lower rpms where the flow rate is slower.

HTH

Bob

 

Open holes . . .

I finished up cleaning up the head to put it all back together and this is what I found out. The Risse gasket has holes that wouldn't be needed. In the attached thumbnails, I have the holes that are existing on the felpro gasket. The old gasket on the head and the only places that new ones could be added. That is the question again? Would it be of any help or leave it stock, or like GtJim and RallyeBob suggested just the 2 holes between #2 and #3 exhaust valves. Thank you, Jarrell

As Bob said, only #2 and #3 holes closest to the junction of the cylinders should be opened up.

 

Well, jeez, that was simple enough! It didn't occur to me to scrutinize the head gasket and compare it to the head...
OK, I'm convinced. Everybody study this and punch a couple holes in your next head gasket!
Thanks, Bob (Keith?)!! Now the fuel grade thread can go back to its original topic

 

Hello,
IIRC, the ELRING head gasket for the CIH 2.0,2.2 and 2.4 have the holes punched out along all the cylinder block coolant ports on the intake/exhaust side, just like the Risse gasket.
Hope that helps.

 

Hello,
Pic of ELRING headgasket for Opel CIH engine.

 

oopsie I made a poopsie.

attempted to punch out my holes with a gasket punch and all it did was dent my head gasket. took too many whacks. eventually made the hole.

had to pound my gasket flat again, and afraid I barely dented/pinched the piston surround by mistake.

today was not a good day. had to order new rod bearings again and now maybe a new head gasket?

MORAL OF THE STORY?! use a quality punch and be careful!!!!!

 

MORAL OF THE STORY?! use a quality punch and be careful!!!!!

Even if it is Harbor Freight quality:
9 Piece Punch and Die Set

 

well not from OGTS they are not. I used a hollow punch from harbor freight. brand new. took 3-4 hits to break through and deformed the head gasket.

so i was being careless, and in a hurry and wasnt thinking. I mi**** with the hammer when trying to fix it.on the piston surround and pinched it just slightly.

in the fampous words of George....:banghead:

 

JJ did you ever get the holes punched ? and how? Thanks

 

I ended up using the headgasket in prior posts. all seems well so far.

If I did it over again, I would drill the holes slowly. using a punch dents the gasket. remember its made of metal.

if using a punch, do it on thick steel surface. on wood or anything that can flex,bend etc will allow gasket to stretch until punch goes through.

 

Thanks guys, I think I will drill it out, less deformation of the gasket, 3/8 hole correct ?

 

I used a punch. IMHO, a drill will more likely damage the gasket by twisting and deforming it than a sharp punch.

 

I agree with Keith; use a sharp punch. Yes it will deform a little around the hole but that is easily flattened back out and does no harm. The risk using a drill to damage worse is higher. JMTCW.

 

Yep, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, or a craft store that has leather craft tools, carry a cheap set for around 8 bucks. Definitely punch on top of a dense wood. Pine is too soft, and will allow deformation of the gasket plane.

 

I disagree with all of you guys...I used a Roper Whitney XX industrial hole punch. It is designed for punching clean holes in sheet metal, and will not deform the gasket at all. One squeeze and it's done. Optional sizes with it as well. Since I had this tool, I have made pan gaskets for old 50s cars as well as some odd and end gaskets. They always seem to come out better too than the good old days of punches. One of the few tools that paid for itself.
http://www.roperwhitney.com/portable-light-duty.html

 

I disagree with all of you guys...I used a Roper Whitney XX industrial hole punch. It is designed for punching clean holes in sheet metal, and will not deform the gasket at all. One squeeze and it's done. Optional sizes with it as well. Since I had this tool, I have made pan gaskets for old 50s cars as well as some odd and end gaskets. They always seem to come out better too than the good old days of punches. One of the few tools that paid for itself.
ROPER WHITNEY: Portable, Light Duty Punches

Keith! You are splitting hairs; just wants the last word!

 

Thanks guys, I guess the metal is too soft to get a clean cut, then I will find a good punch instead of the drill, harbor freight here I come ( actually that will be the last stop) :haha: Napa, home depot , lowes, ace :yup:

 

Should I wait until I need an engine rebuild to do this?:drive:

 

Here's what I use:

9 Piece Punch and Die Set

Edit: Oops, already posted this in post 18...

 

Do not use a drill!, It will snag, I promise. Now you might be able to use a Unibit cutter, those are less likely to snag

 

I think the only way you could make either work would be to sandwich it between something you could drill through.

Harold