Some More Pics

Now the pictures are of the I-5.. It was too dark where the I-4 was located.

The only difference between the two is the length.. which was 6" longer as mentioned

 

Some more info:

Type: 2.8L I-4 (LK5)
Displacement: 2770cc (169 ci)
Compression ratio: 10.0:1
Valve configuration: dual overhead cam (4 valves per cylinder)
Assembly site: Tonawanda, N.Y.
Valve lifters: roller followers with stationary hydraulic lash adjusters
Firing order: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Bore x stroke: 93 x 102mm
Fuel system: multipoint sequential fuel injection
Horsepower: 175 hp (131 kw) @ 5600 rpm
Torque: 185 lb-ft (251 Nm) @ 2800 rpm
Fuel shut off: 6300 rpm
Emissions controls: evaporative system
close-coupled and underfloor catalytic converters
Applications: Chevrolet Colorado (base)
GMC Canyon (base)

MATERIALS
Block: lost foam cast aluminum
Cylinder head: lost foam cast aluminum
Intake manifold: composite
Exhaust manifold: high silicon molybdenum
cast nodular iron
Main bearing caps: forged powder metal
Crankshaft: cast nodular iron
Camshaft: cast nodular iron
Connecting rods: forged powder metal
Additional features: chain-driven balance shaft
variable exhaust valve timing
coil-on-plug Ignition
electronic throttle control
platinum tip spark plugs
Oil Life System
extended life coolant
structural cast aluminum oil pan
inadvertent restart protection


The picture / power chart is for the I-5 not the I-4.. but posted it because it shows the opposite hand side of the motor.

 

OK here is a question for you fabricators.

Do you think with this plastic intake there is a way to cut it in half like at a 45 degree and reset the intake to so instead of going up it can go to the right.

What I noticed was the lower part of the motor looked similar to the ECOTEC. Wondeirng if the ECOTEC Intake woudl fit the Vortec/Atlas motor.

The problem lies in the fact that intake raises the profile of the engine assembly to about 5" taller than the Opel motor, of that about 2-1/2" of it is the intake. So, if the intake could be reworked it would be less than 2" taller and need relatively little modification to the Kadett or Manta hood.

Again the pictures are of the I-5, not the I-4 they are what I could find.

 

Todays intakes are more than likely made of plastic.
I've all way's shied away from them because of the lack of being able to easily improve the flow.
One case in point would be a 4.6L with PI heads. We had to remove the nice ported Alum. intake and replace it with a plastic unit to get the power up to the levels we wanted. So go figure
Another area where work needs to be done. Man I hate R&D on my nickle.

 

I guess in this case, a slight power loss would be better than 5" tall hood bump. I am getting one off ebay to see if I can do anyting with it.. There is an epoxy I have used for plastic recently on some other projects and maybe be able to modify it.

Do you if anyone has had luck modifying the plastic intakes? In the case of the LK5.. it looks pretty basic like a big rectangle with the head connection on the bottom and a intake at the top.. so it should be easy to modify.. the question is the plastic if it would hold up to being cut and expoied back together.

OH.. and I found that the 2007 version is a 2.9L with close to 200 HP. Same intake though..

 

Got an LK5

$1000 FOR COMPLETE TAKEOUT MOTOR WITH WIRING TO FIREWALL OR WHERE EVER IT UNBOLTS FROM, ALL ACCESSORIES, TRANNY ETC

Looking to put it in Bens Manta and take his 2.0L motor and put that in my Kadett.

Figured if I need to install a cowl induction hood, it would look better on the Manta

With a 185 HP / 175 ft/lbs the Manta should scream...

Let you all know how it goes.

 

That intake manifold looks like a Quad 4 might fit your eng. HTH
Good luck with your project .
John

 

What about metal impregnated into fiberglass? The metal forms the seal between the head and the manifold and the fiberglass forms the rest of the manifold... I don't know about cutting the original one up but you could certainly make a custom part.

 

For right now.. the Manta has a bit more hieght in the motor area.

So I will fit it in.. and then decide wiether to install a cowl induction scoop on it to claer it, or modify the intake. Rather not modify the intake (1 for cost, 2 for performance)..

A cowl induction hood will give it a Camaro SS Look and with 175 HP.. it will eb as fast as one.

 

Charles. Maybe I'm missing it in the posts, but what tranny will you use?

 

The transmission that came in the Colorado (and in various forms about every GM product since 1999.. the 4L60E 4 speed automatic)

I may not be using my sons Manta.. as I have a line on a 73' Automatic Manta Rallye.. which would work a bit better.

But if that falls through I will use his car.

Figuring I will do a custom dash like I did on my 66 GTO using Aurora guages.

Overall I think this project will be super simple.. (as conversions go).

The only thing I may have to do is swap a differnt rearend in. Depending on the length of the 4L60. BUT it could be possible that an Manta driveshaft will work like it does on the S-10 tranny. Which would be sweet.

Charles

 

Speaking of the dash anyone have the name of the guy that makes the stainless steel inserts for the Manta dash cluster?

 

Was reading back through Charles' thread and saw this....is someone really making these? If so, please share!

 

Trim this scoop down, and I think I have a winner.. no intake mods needed.

The proof will be once I get the motor installed how much room I really need.

BTW, if anyone is looking for a hood scoop, bump, etc.. etc..

A REALLY great website is: Rated: Best  Fit, Best Quality & Lowest Prices, Camaro Fiberglass, Mustang Fiberglass, Chevelle, Nova, Hood Scoops, 1955 Fenders

They have an unbelieveable amount of hood scoops, cowl induction sccops, etc.. to choose from.

 

Got the quote from Wiring/Computer guru

$550, and he will custom my harness and reprogram the computer.

All I will have to do, is plug up everything and wire up the fuse panel, fuel pump, fan.

 

Looking at Rims..

Has anyone gone 17" or 18" .. if so how wide did you get under your Manta? Find a TON of posts on GT fitment and such.

I can figure the fitment.. just curious how it would look and how wide someone has gotten without cutting the body.

I was thinking of going 17" w/ 225/35r17 Not sure it would fit though..

From what I can tell though seems the 16" 215/40r16 is about the largest everyoen seems to go with..

 

One thing to always keep in mind on doing engine swaps, try to find out lots of info on the donors. Here are a few things I have seen. The 5 cyl in the H3 with 30k on it with bad valves. Updated head, on backorder, no warrantee. The 5.9l dodges that crack the heads, national backorder. The ford vortec engines, change the plugs..watch out, The ecotech(size?) with the one piece t-stat and plastic housing that cracks. and many more. They sure have some great engines out there, but I cant believe the stupid stuff I see.

Dan

 

From most websites I have gone too, the LK5 seems to be pretty solid, couldn't find any major recalls.. OR anyone complaining online about them.

One site mentioned replacing the Head / Head Gasket was a major pain, some special tools, etc.. It does seem the valves are a problem.. BUT it also seems part of the reason isn't necessarily an engine design flaw.. Seems the CAT gets clogged and then causes a valve burn. So if I don't put in the CATs.. then I shouldn't have a problem.

 

Charles I have 17's on my manta. I will look up the sizes and send you a pm. These sizes are on the outer edge of what will not rub Ron

 

Thanks.. From your gallery.. Looks like a 7" wide rim and most I find are 40mm and from the online calculator that looks like it would work.. so.. are these 17x7 +40 ?

 

charles, the wheels are TSW that have a 20MM offset they are 17x7. The Front tires are 205/40/R17 the backs are 215/40/R17.

I started with 215/40/17 all the way around and had to curl the fender lips back and trim the belly pan to allow for the wide tires to turn.

Six months later my daughter went off roading by accident and blew two tires late one evening. So I took this opportunity to go to the 205 in the front. The polly bushings and the low profile tires with Hi pressure KYB shocks made the ride very harsh. I just switched back to the stock rubber bushings and the Low pressure GR2 KYB shocks and love the ride much better. The 18 inch wheels just did not work on the Manta. Ron

 

I think I am going 15 or 16.. I can't find a 17 that has the style I want.

Finding a good number of 15s that are close and 16s as well..

I can't wait in less than 2 weeks I should have the Manta and the motor.. so I can start working on it.

This will be the first Manta project I plan on stripping down to the body.. that way I can do all the metal work and such right.

Also going to do some tricks to it as well..

 

Charles, I have a set of 16 x 7.5" TSW's with 205/45-16 tires that fit a Manta with no issues. I lost a tire two years ago to a pothole, so I will probably upgrade them to 215/40-16's to keep the diameter reasonable but get a bit more tire contact patch on the road.

 

Do they fit a Manta with lowered suspension, or do they only fit the stock ride height? I have a set of 16"x7" rims that I wanted to use on a Manta but held off because the car has been lowered ~2".

 

Thanks, 16"s are definately what I am planning on now.. looking at options as such. I plan on dropping about 1-2" and rebuilding the suspension with all new bushings, etc..

BTW..

Engine is on a truck today, should have monday, pick up the Manta on sunday.

First order of business will be to remove the drivetrain from teh Manta and put it side by side the LK5.

Can't wait.. after spending $1200 on the Colorado drivetrain.. I'm a little nervous.. :yup:

 

Manta is in the garage.. Its surprising how much bigger my garage is with a Matna instaead of a 1966 GTO In it..

Typical rust in the spare tire area, some light rust on the lower driver door, typical jack point on driver side and battery box rust. Clean inner fenders, looks to have not have ever been undercoated ( YEA !! ) .

Overall very clean body.. Will find out once I start taking down the interior and such.

Plan on stripping to a chassis and using two engine stands w/ so Angle mounted to the bumper jacks to use as a rotiserrie for cleaning it up.

Figure give be two weeks and I will ahve the shell stripped and the new engine here to do mock ups.

Got a trip or two to the local pick apart planned to see what I can find in the way of a BMW rear end.. MAY swap the BMW IRS in.. Depends on how well the LK5 Engine/Tranny combo fits and its geometry to the rear end.

Will post pictures of the body soon.

 

Pictures, we will need lots of pictures. I have been kicking around the BMW IRS for a while now and if you do it I would like to see how.

 

Definately will give regular updates

Its been done on a GT ( http://www.opelgt.com/forums/perfor...formance-suspension-braking-upgrades/5273-how-fit-bmw-irs-into-gt-part-1-a.html ).. so it should be pretty much the same for a Manta but possibly easier.

These are the mods I AM doing:

Installing a LK5 2.8L Chevy Colorado Motor
Lowering 1-2"
Front spoiler
Custom interior

Will need to do:

Improved braking -

Right now I would go with what I did on Bens Manta:

Manta 75' Front brakes and Isuzu Impulse Rear Disc.
or
If I go with BMW IRS then it will be BMW rear discs.

Power Steering -

The motor has a power steering pump that I pretty much have to use, due to the belt configuration. So this will probably be done with a Chevette Rack..

Will probably need to do:

Improved rear end -

There are three from what I can gather culling the forum, that would be interesting or straight forward.

1) Toyota Truck Rear
2) Isuzu Impulse rear (Solid axle.. although the IRS would be interesting)
3) BMW IRS

Other Mods:

Considering Lambo Door kit, Convertible, or T-Tops. But these maybe more ideas than reality.. depending on budget and what I find.

Great thing I have two bodys other than the one I am working on to "test" ideas.

 

Manta 75' Front brakes

Charles, go bigger on the front brakes, they do 75% of the stopping. I recently drove Duane's Ascona (1965 lbs, about 160 hp), and the 1975 front brakes were GONE (as in massive brake fade and pedal to the floor) after just 4 passes in a parking lot. See my video here.

With 185 hp, lots of torque, and a full-weight Manta, you will need vented front disc brakes and better calipers. Or airbags....:no:

 

I was disappointed by the 75s I put on my GT. But I had heard that they were only marginally better than stock.

 

Well, in truth the pad material makes more of a difference than anything else. I have used the Porterfield R4-S on 1975 brakes and they resisted fade better than the BMW vented front rotors I used to run with Metal Master pads. But you get what you pay for!

Metal Masters - about $28 back in the mid 1990's
Porterfield R4-S - about $120 these days

I recently got some Hawk HPS pads to try out on 1975 brakes, we'll see if they're comparable to the Porterfields. They only cost $70 and are available from Summit Racing.

 

I am open to suggestions. I know there are a ton of options with different levels of machining skills required. I am looking at possibly a universal kit made for Mustang 2 suspensions or somethign. Haven't looked into it full tilt yet.

Get to get the motor in first. Will defiantely be doing something with the front brakes. The limitations are budget and my machining skills.